How to ID Polybutylene pipe?

We just signed a contract for a house in FL that was built in 1994
How do identify Polybutylene pipe?
Behind a panel in the garage is a manifold with shut off valves, with plastic type pipes attached with threaded fittings.
How can I determine if it is Polybutylene pipe which I have heard can be bad.
Thanks for any info.

If it's gray there is a good chance it's PB pipe. If you had a house inspection they should have told you what type pipe you have.

Inside the home Polybutylene is usually Gray but i have seen black as well. outside the home water services may be gray, blue, or black. Post a photo of what you have to verifiy.

I found out it is PB Bummer.
One of the large plumbing companies in town, has a special going on. Repipe with PEX, with a new water heater, for $2995.
I called back and the man I talked to was out, and I asked the person who was there if it included a new manifold. She said she didn't think it included manabloc systems.
I don't know if they would do it for the same price, without using a manabloc system.
Is there a good reason I would want to spend more (how much?) for a manabloc system?
Can/should the manabloc manifold be reused? Below is a pic of it.
Have to get some numbers together to hit the Broker with.
Thanks for any info.

The manifold system is pretty slick. Worth it, I don't know...

I thought the manifold system was kick ass until i put one in my own house.

Great for service side of things, but kind of annoying that i can run hot water to my sink and go and run the shower and i have to wait those few extra seconds to bring hot water to the top floor. If i could do it all over again, id just pipe it the conventional way.

it goes back to my point swapping plastic for plastic does not make sense. spend the extra money and go copper

I would re-pipe in PEX. Use plastic fittings and either Uponer or a crimp system. I always run remote manifold systems in order to use less PEX and get hot water to fixtures sooner.

Copper is great, I love it. But if you use copper be sure to use Type-L to minimize pinhole leaks inside your walls down the road.

i never use type m pipe for anything other then a t and p drain on a heater. i do all my repipes in type L copper. if the copper is installed correctly it will last for a very long time. yes it is more expensive but it is worth its wait in gold.

Are you on municipal water supply or a well? If you are on a well I wouldn't be concerned about having poly B

The house is on city water. The PEX job comes with a 25 yr warranty on materials.(should outlast me!) and a 10 yr warranty on labor.

I think I will use the manifold and maybe some of the PB tubing when I plumb the irrigation well.

I think I will ask the plumber, what it would cost to do in L copper. Afraid to hear the answer!

If you're on city supply....then yes, you want it re piped.

There's no need to be afraid of pex. If quality fittings are used, you shouldn't be having issues for a long long time.

Thanks for the reply Matt 30
The company is the largest in my town, and they use all Zurn material, with a 25 year warranty on the materials and a 10 year labor warranty.
They install a 9 year water with the job, for $3000.
Any comments or suggestions on the materials, warranty, or price would be welcome. It's a 3/2 with plumbing up thru attic, and down inside walls to where it is needed.
Thanks for any thoughts.

Make sure they do not use pex fitting for the tub spout supply. I like running copper for the tub spout and shower riser. Use a sweat/thread drop ear 90 at the shower riser and a sweat drop ear 90 or regular 90 at the tub spout.

While copper for the shower riser isnt a 100% necessity....i would hope that the largest plumbing company in his town knows how to make a tub / shower work.

If they are doing a repipe with new water heater for $3000, I would be watching everything.

does anyone else think there is something fishy going on with a repipe and a water heater. there is no way they are re-piping the entire home for $2500. that is if the heater is around $500. i would seriously check there liscense. are they pulling permits? anytime plumbing is altered or a heater is installed you need to get it permitted. if not then watch out. would hate to see you get taken for a ride.

I have a mobile vacation home and my contractor charged me $3,000 as well, and it also included a new water heater, new supply lines, and new 1/4 turn angle valves. Then again, the home only had two bathrooms, a kitchen and a laundry room, which are all within close proximity of the edge skirting.

alot of the work was probably under the home to. i just dont see drywall repair,labor,parts all for $3000.

We do lots of KiTec replacements and while I don't price them, I know we have done jobs where the price tag was upwards of 8grand, and we were the cheapest bidder!