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Old 02-16-2012, 06:05 AM   #1
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Default Floor Drain P-Trap clogged, maybe grout?

First post, novice DIY. 10 yr old home. Floor drain in mechanical room on basement slab was blocked, or draining very slowly. After vacuming out all the water, it appears there was a hole in the p trap at the base of the drain. Decided to fix it right and jackhammered a 24" circle of 4" thick cement and dug out the drain area and cut the 2" Schedule 40 black drain pipe right after the P-Trap on the horizontal run to the rest of the main line I suppose.

It appeared that a very hard white paste had completely clogged the p-trap. I cut it in half and poked some out. Pic shows blue, but that is just the paint from the blade of my sawzall. It was very sandy at the bottom of the trap, but very solid throughout the upper portion. It looks remarkably similar in color to the grout in the kitchen backsplash the previous owner (I moved in 1 yr ago) was so proud they did themselves. I'm guessing they cleaned out in the basement drain and didn't dilute or wash out enough.

Looking down the main line, the lower third of the pipe still had the hardened sediment in it. I pulled out an 8' piece that broke, but there is still more in there. Now for the questions:
1 - What options do I have to get it out?
2 - Can it be snaked backwards from another cleanout pushing the grout out the hole?
3 - Does muriatic acid work, and if so, should I put on the new drain and p trap before applying it, or put it in the direct horizontal pipe before gluing the new trap on?
4 - Should I just put the new trap on and not worry about the hardened grout in the main line?

Thanks - Adam

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Last edited by losa; 02-16-2012 at 06:20 AM.
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:11 PM   #2
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I have (unfortunately) a little bit of experience with concrete type products solidifying in a drain pipe. If you can use a long skinny flat screwdriver or the like, any of the grout that you can reach will break off in sections and be easily slid out, probably using the same screwdriver type instrument.

A pro drain cleaner with a full size U cutter would be able to break the rest of it out and send it downstream to the next cleanout, where you should be able to remove it with a spring grabber sold at any autoparts store.
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