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Old 02-03-2012, 04:23 AM   #1
charless917
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Default Grundfos Pump install location right?

Please take a look at my picture and let me know what I need to change. I need to add a few shutoffs and I think I need to get a PRV (static pressure is 80psi but think pressure from city main jumps up to 100-120psi need to get a better gauge to know for sure)

The main question I have is about the grundfos up10-16bn5\tlc. I have a 1/2 loop coming back to the hot water heater from the farthest sink. Originally there was only 1 water heater but was plumbed for 2. I added the second heater but left the pump on the first heater like it was. In either setup I just dont feel like it is right. I have seen other style grundfos pumps that attach directly to the hot out of the water heater, or where they come in at the drain valve but never seen a 1/2 line tee into the hot out. The main lines are 1". When testing this it does work but I have not been using the pump b/c I still need to insulate the lines.

There is a lot of different things in the pic that really need an explanation but Ill wait to see what responses I get before I go into too much detail. Example: Had to bypass cold water lines from softener, ill explain more if you think this is a major issue in the setup.

I know the picture isnt very good but thought it would help me when asking questions.





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Old 02-03-2012, 04:25 AM   #2
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Also note that the (hot out) of the first heater is going into the (cold in) on the 2nd heater. The picture makes it look like its switched.



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Old 02-03-2012, 09:06 AM   #3
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You should have the recirc tied into the cold inlet of the hwt, and there needs to be a proper loop to circulate. what your picture indicates is no return loop simply a pump installed and dead heading on the main hot. the pressure is jumping because the pump is adding pressure to the line.

this is going off of your drawing.

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Old 02-03-2012, 12:10 PM   #4
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If your designated recirculating line is connected to the hot water line at the furthest fixture from the heater? Then to make it work the recirculating line along with the pump should be connected to the bottom of the 75 gallon heater. There should also be a check valve installed in the recirculating line at the heater. The only other problem you may run into is that you have two branches on the hot line coming of at the heater. Only one of these lines will recirculate and that would be the one that has the recirculating line connected to. One other problem that I'm seeing is it looks like the hot water line that connects between the heaters looks like it's connected to the hot side of the 50 gallon heater. It should be connected to the cold side then feed the system from the hot side.

John

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Old 02-03-2012, 01:57 PM   #5
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Yeah the drawing isnt the best. The recirc line comes from the farthest sink and is a proper loop, just didnt draw everything past a certain point. Also the hot and cold lines coming off of the heaters are going in and out the correct places, it just looks reversed b/c I was trying to make the drawing easier to see.

What I was thinking was that it made more sense to have the loop coming into the cold line. I wouldnt have to buy anything extra to do it, just move it. Do you think it makes a difference if it came in from the cold line on top or from the drain valve? To me I dont see the difference unless I was trying to do gravity feed and then it would have to come into the bottom.

I do have a check valve on the return loop. Thanks for the responses.

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Old 02-03-2012, 02:12 PM   #6
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I once built a house and ran a recirc line from the furthest end of the house back to the water heater and ran it into the bottom of the heater. After getting my first electric bill, I then insulated the pipes. One inch down and 1/2 inch back. No pump, the water would cool enough to auto circulate and I had very hot instant water at the furthest bathroom as well as the other two.

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Old 02-03-2012, 04:51 PM   #7
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Once I get the lines insulated I was think about trying gravity and not have the pump on but this is a pretty large 2 story house (5,000-6,000 sqft) about 100ft long so Im not sure how well it would work out.

IF I was to connect the return loop to the water heater near the bottom I would just connect it to the drain valve correct? What is the best method for making this connection? Would I remove the plastic valve and connect it with a nipple or something like that. Not sure if I mentioned it but all my plumbing is PEX

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Old 02-03-2012, 08:06 PM   #8
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Remove the valve and install a nipple and a tee. Use one branch of the tee for return loop and install the drain valve into the other branch. It should be a 3/4" taping on the bottom of the tank.

John

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Old 02-03-2012, 09:20 PM   #9
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Sounds good I'll try that out. Thanks for the help everyone. If you see anything else that I should be concerned with please let me know. I'm trying to get everything I need then do it all at once.

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Old 02-04-2012, 12:47 AM   #10
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Would there be an issue using a outlet timer on the pump? It has a timer built in but it only allows for everyday to be set to the same. My weekends are very different than my weekdays. I thought I could put the pump on the always on setting and then use an outlet timer to turn it on and off to better match the hours of typical water useage.



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