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Old 09-19-2011, 02:14 PM   #1
uptown25
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Default Rex Valve Flushometer (Repair)

Recently the water-main in my neighborhood was replaced. I think sediment got into our pipes and have damaged the diaphragms in our toilets.

What we have are DELANY REX VALVES
Same as; simply search this page for "Rex" and you'll find the diagram.
http://crestgood.com/catalog/Ch%2008%20complete.pdf

The issue:
Two of our toilets continuously flush (water runs) when the lever is pulled. I've turned off the screw valves on the fixtures (these are tankless rex valves if you've seen the diagram). I've read all I need to do is replace the diaphragm, Simply getting a repair kit from the hardware store etc.

My question to you guys:
Is this all I need to do, and how is this done properly? Detailed is what I'm looking for, detailed enough as to even where the brass pinhole part should be, adjacent to the lever, exactly where?

Any, any help at all would be awesome! Also I'm not quite sure how to know what gallon type I need to get, I remember 3.5 from the last plumber that came in to repair but unsure. How would I be able to gauge that? THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!



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Old 09-19-2011, 09:51 PM   #2
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Update-

I replaced the diaphragm on one of the toilets. The water doesn't continuously run now, but now it doesn't get a full flush. I got a 3.5 replacement kit, could it be it's the wrong one and that's why the flush is weak?

I'm not going to try the other one, instead wait for a response here or from my plummer friend.



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Old 09-19-2011, 10:06 PM   #3
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Are you sure you got a 3.5 gallon diaphragm? If your toilets are 1.6 with a 3.5 the toilet would flush twice. If your toilets are3.5 with a 3.5 they would flush normal. It sounds like you have 3.5 toilets and you used 1.6 diaphragm this would cause them to flush either slow or not at all.

John

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Old 09-20-2011, 02:05 AM   #4
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thanks for the reply

the part number is r107-3a7 3.5 dia assem

maybe they slipped me a 1.6 inside and re-tagged? I did purchase two of them, I didn't install the other one since I was unsure if I got the right one.

The watermain on my block was just upgraded, maybe there is air in the pipes in my house causing the lower pressure? When I was test flushing it, there was a lot of hissing in the bowl, like bubbles being let out.

Maybe it will fix itself, though if this is the correct diagnosis what's some ways I can remove the bubbles from my piping?

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Old 09-21-2011, 05:59 PM   #5
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Confirmed the last diaphragm was a 3.5 installed by the last plumber from the receipt.

I'm giving up and called the plumber today..

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Old 10-02-2011, 07:52 PM   #6
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Update, the plumber wouldn't replace a new diaphragm so I simply did it myself. He had the nerve to tell me all he could do is replace it with a new flushometer. Repair cost was about $12 for two new diaphragms, and installation was free. The guy was also asking for $350 per installation...
$12>$350 simple.

I was having issues with the installation, that's why I was giving up. I tried again, and installed it the right way. All my rex valve toilets work better than ever now, good to be handy and not have to cough up at least $60 for each plumbing visit, saving some cash.

So of all the issues I thought it was, replacing the diaphragms did the trick, installing it properly was my issue since I'm such a novice. Learned big time from this experience, now I'll be called upon next time the diaphragms need to be replaced.

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Old 10-03-2011, 01:50 AM   #7
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Good for you, & thanks for the update.

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Old 07-12-2013, 09:47 PM   #8
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when I pull handle on my Delaney rex valve I have to hold handle for water to flow if I let it go there is no water pressure

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Old 07-12-2013, 10:01 PM   #9
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when I pull handle on my Delaney rex valve I have to hold handle for water to flow

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Old 07-13-2013, 12:16 AM   #10
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stephen, I could be wrong, but did the packaging say anything about dual flush? When you say diaphragm, do you mean the rubber flapper that raises up when you flush? Some of the designs are meant for dual flush toilets-- basically it means it drains only a little when you press the lever down once briefly. That is usually enough to clear liquid only waste, but the second flush requires you to hold the lever down to let it empty everything. It's something that is supposed to conserve water so you aren't doing a full flush every time just for liquid only waste.

I couldn't get the .pdf file to load so I couldn't look at it.

Another thing-- which you may have done already-- when you take apart the flush valve assembly is to clean it thoroughly. I have high sediment in my water and after about four or five years it had gunked up the flush valve so the toilet kept running. I took the flush valve assembly apart and cleaned it then put it back together and replaced the flapper (which was a bit warped). The new flapper requires me to hold the lever down for longer in order to get a good flush, but was the one recommended for that toilet (a Toto Drake).

$350 to replace the flush valve assembly? WTF? Ok, I'm not a plumber nor do I play one on TV, but *I* can replace a flush valve and I am a total uncoordinated monkey. There are videos on youtube that show how. And a lot of the times you don't even need the new full assembly (as I said before, sometimes you need to clean it).

I can't load the video right now because of ISP restrictions, but here is one

. Just look up "how to replace flush valve assembly" on youtube.

The steps on one of the vids was so easy that I was able to follow along easily and take mine apart and clean it.

Another thought has to do with the flapper (if that is what you replaced) and the length of the chain. Perhaps you need to clip the chain so it is a bit shorter and will lift higher when you flush?

As for the bubbles, I'm not sure what to say on that but sometimes running water until the bubbles clear takes care of it. Not a water-saving friendly way though. I'd have to defer to the experts on that one.


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