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Old 04-20-2011, 01:07 PM   #1
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Default hydronic toe kick heaters

I'm considering installing a hydronic under the cabinet toe kick heater in my kitchen. As I understand it, there are three major brands: Beacon-Morris, Myson, Turbonics. How do they rate? Is there a consensus as to which one is better? I've also heard that Myson heaters are easier to service since they supposedly can be just pulled out (unlike others) from under the cabinet -- is that true?

Any opinion will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


Last edited by dm59; 04-20-2011 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:18 PM   #2
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Default Myson `Plinth Heaters`/ `Kick Heaters`


These Myson Heaters - the type that are connected to the Heating System - Basically they have a `Heat Exchanger` - Heated by the Heating System - and a `Variable Speed Fan` - controlled by Switches - which `Blows` out the Heat at various speeds - You will know this - but for `others`.

If the Heating System is of the `Sealed System` type - You should check that the MAXIMUM Pressure within the System - When `Hot` does not exceed the Maximum Pressure Rating of the Myson Unit.

The `Pull Forward` facility is achieved by the use of `Flexible -`Braided Stainless Steel Reinforced` - Connectors` - SIMILAR in appearance to the Flexible Tap Connectors - BUT Please ENSURE that they are `Rated` for Heating System Pipework / Pressures / Temperatures, Flexible Tap Connectors are NOT `Rated for Heating System Use - Even if the `Pressure` and Temperature` Ratings SEEM to be `O.K.` - As they would NOT be `Rated` for `Continuous Flow` at those Pressures and Temperatures.

IF any of these are `Supplied` with the Heaters ? - they are likely to be of the `Short` variety - used on Installation to Prevent Vibration Noise being transmitted through the System Pipework - Not really to allow the `Pull Forward` that You mention.

Unless You are `Wiring` the Myson Units yourself - you should mention to the Electrician to Wire the Units when you have them `Pulled Forward` - Otherwise they might restrict the movement with a `Short` cable - Just a `Tip`.

These should ALWAYS be Installed with Isolating Valves - chosen to be able to use `Partially Open` in order to `Regulate`/`Balance` the Flow & Return to the Myson Unit - Not the `Ball Type` Lever Isolating Valves,
these Isolating Valves can obviously be used IF the Unit ever needs to be replaced - so as not to have to Drain Down the Heating System.

I hope that this is of some help - My U.S. Colleagues are better placed to answer your Question about whether the Myson Heaters are as `Good` as the other Manufacturers that you mentioned [As I am U.K. based].

Some of what I wrote here is for the benefit of other `readers` - who are not aware of these types of Heaters.



Last edited by CHRISM; 04-21-2011 at 12:56 AM.
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:43 PM   #3
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I installed the Beacon-Morris 84 model in my kitchen because it was on clearance at Home Depot. It will only be used as a backup on very cold days. It works fine for that purpose. If it were something that would be used more regularly I would go with the Turbonics unit because I think the fan design in that is better than the others with 'squirrel cage' fans.
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