Water Softener Questions

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amateurplumber

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Hello,

I will be purchasing a Fleck 5600SXT 48,000 grain capacity water softener. However, before I order, I've got a few questions:

1)What place do you guys think is the best place to order from? I've been recommended qualitywatertreatment.com, ohiopurewater.com, and qualitywaterforless.com. They're all within the same amount of money, and they all seem to be pretty good.

2)I can use this for a bypass valve, there is no need for another one, correct? http://i.imgur.com/9vhiQnZ.jpg

3)This drain is ok for the drain and overflow lines, right? http://i.imgur.com/CSXWX3b.jpg

4)Since my valves are not threaded, and I don’t know how to solder, I can just use sharkbite fittings, right?

5)Is it very difficult to assemble and install the water softener?

6)I’d appreciate any tips you may have (what materials the lines should be made out of, precautions to take, stuff like that)!

Thank you guys SO much!
 
If your in the Business, Nelson is a great place to deal with. They are wholesale only though. What kind of pricing are you getting? Is the Fleck valve a metered head?

Yes you can use the three valves as a bypass, but you will have to solder some pipe into them for the shark bites to get a hold of. The drain looks good to me as long as there is an air gap between the tubing and the water level.

A softener is only as hard to install as your ability to install it goes. There is the plumbing, setting up the valve etc. If the valve comes with directions, you should be ok. If not, we can talk you through most of it.
 
speedbump said:
If your in the Business, Nelson is a great place to deal with. They are wholesale only though. What kind of pricing are you getting? Is the Fleck valve a metered head?

Yes you can use the three valves as a bypass, but you will have to solder some pipe into them for the shark bites to get a hold of. The drain looks good to me as long as there is an air gap between the tubing and the water level.

A softener is only as hard to install as your ability to install it goes. There is the plumbing, setting up the valve etc. If the valve comes with directions, you should be ok. If not, we can talk you through most of it.
Click to expand...

It's $550 with the bypass valve, $536 without it (I shouldnt need a bypass valve since I already have one). It is indeed a metered head.

I've never soldered, I really hope this isnt the step that holds me back. :( The pipes look like this on the inside (i've been told these are gate valves).

I think there should be an air gap, but I'm not 100% sure. I really have a lot of learning to do.

Thanks again for the help!
 
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The 5600's I used to sell had a geared meter behind the head in front of the bypass which like you said you don't need. Those are gate valves and if they were soldered to before, they should be silverie and shiney on the inside. If so, it shouldn't be too hard to solder some nipples into them.

Here is a link on how to solder. It's very long, but it will get you up and running quickly. http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/basic-soldering-copper-pipe-7192/
When you get done with the article, you can teach the class... trust me!
Once you get all the particulars down, the simple thing to do is use emery paper on the end of the copper pipe until it's very clean. Flux it up, flux up the inside of the valve until the solder begins to melt, then push the nipple into the valve, add more heat and solder. Your done.

Pricing on softeners on the Web have gotten so ridiculously low, that I don't even try to compete anymore. I could sell one for that price, but why go to all the trouble for no profit? These guys probably have it drop shipped from their supplier and never have to touch the equipment.
 
Thanks a ton for the info! Question, some guy on another forum gave me advice that appears to involve no soldering, and is definitely doable by me. How do you feel about this?

I saw the photo you have of the piping in the basement. Mine looked very similar when I started. What I did was cut that all out, so I just had two cut copper pipes hanging there. Then I got two gatorbite ball valves like these:

Shop GatorBITE 3/4" x 3/4" Removable Ball Valve at Lowes.com

Stuck one on each pipe. Then you'll have threaded ends on the softener side and gatorbite ends on the wall side. You can just go to Lowes then and buy PEX tubing and any elbows to join it all together.
Click to expand...

It does indeed seem pretty low priced. I wish I had more money; would definitely rather buy local and have someone install it...
 
If you do it like he suggests, you will need to buy the softener with the bypass.

The big thing on price is what you get for it.
 
speedbump said:
If you do it like he suggests, you will need to buy the softener with the bypass.

The big thing on price is what you get for it.
Click to expand...

In actually ok with that since it was included in the initial price. They subtract $16 if you don't get it, though. If you suggest I buy the valve elsewhere I can always do that too! Thanks for putting up with my questions lol. I guess whatever method that doesn't require soldering is best I will do. I just really don't feel like buying/renting a solderer and then learning how to do it.
 
The one you have now is not offered by the Manufacturer of the Head. It is installed by a Plumber. The one that comes with your Fleck valve is part of the Head. It's an add on with some companies and others just include it automatically. That's why when your buying a unit, you should match apples for apples.
 
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