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I tried to console my friend's girlfriend on the phone when she called because her kitten was dying. I could hear the poor thing crying out in the background. Poor girl was sobbing and trying to comfort the kitten. Not sure what was wrong with it. It was really too young to be away from it's mother and it was too skinny to begin with so it was probably sick when they found it and brought it inside (it was right before the rains from Harvey were hitting so they didn't want the poor thing to die in the storm). I've been through a lot of pet deaths and it sucks every time, but she'd never watched a kitten die before so it was very upsetting to her. I promised to go visit her tomorrow and give her a big hug.

Her boyfriend came over with a friend to look at my barn and see what needs to be done to try to salvage anything from it. His friend decided it was too much of a task to take on though-- was worried that something would collapse on him-- and I completely understand that. But the friend is going to be taking care of a bunch of weeds in the yard.

The toilet kept running the night before so I just shut off the water until I was ready to work on it. Took apart the float assembly and cleaned it out and replaced the flapper. Since our water has a lot of sediment, the inside of the toilet tank had this black/brown crud built up that got all over my hands. My mother wanted me to come look at something on her tablet while I was working so I went to look and she said something about wanting me to feel something. I said "OK" and then she saw my hands and said "Nevermind!" I reached toward her like I was going to touch her face and said "Are you sure?" She had a good laugh about it. Then I went back to putting the new flapper in. Had to remember the connection was on the 17th link of the chain. Hardest part was getting the parts of the flapper that grip on to open up enough to clamp on. They didn't want to cooperate with me. I only banged my knuckles on the inside of the tank once though. I might eventually need to replace the flush float assembly thing though. The water level in the bowl keeps getting lower. Not sure what adjustments to make to get it higher though. I've got a G-Max flushing system or something that comes with the Toto Drake. Can't remember the brand.

Mr.David, that was very sweet of your niece to help. I was very lucky that my area wasn't affected much. I feel so sad for the people who lost their homes, pets, and loved ones.

phishfood, that sounds miserable. Down here if it gets above 85 I start to boil (but mostly it's because of the humidity).

I have a plumbing question involving PEX: I was reading that the traditional way of connecting PVC/CPVC to PEX was to use a PVC/CPVC male threaded end to connect to the metal female threaded coupling. But there is a "new" sharkbite fitting that just pushes on. Which method do you think is better?

Or should I post a thread or search to see if that has been answered?
 
So, I take it the sharkbite ones come apart easily? My friend just used them in his bathroom (although the old setup already had some sharkbite fittings.

So, for things that aren't threaded-- would the crimp kind of fittings be better than the sharkbite ones that just click in place?

I've read that for tub spouts, there should be some copper to hook up to instead of PEX and that the PEX can go to the copper. I'm going to have to figure out how to set it up when I start doing stuff. I think I will re-use whatever the setup is for my mother's tub/shower for the new one (If I ever get around to it). My friend threw out the old shower plumbing (copper) from his bathroom when he was renovating. New shower came with the pipes to a certain point so he just connected them with PEX. so in the morning his friend who hauled the stuff off is supposed to bring the assembly and grab bar (basically the wall panel with stuff still attached) to me. Only thing is, it was a 2-lever shower and I want to convert to a single handle Moen Moentrol valve. At least I'll be able to study it and see how things hook together in person.

Mom decided she wants a slidebar for her shower when I get around to replacing the tub.

I still need to fix my bathroom that I've been procrastinating on. I think I may take some early advice and see if I can remove the luan piece that I botched with self-leveling. Only problem is a lot of the screws are covered by the stuff so I would have to find a way to find them and get them out to pull it up-- but I think it may be easier and cheaper in the long run than trying to smooth that crap out and put another layer of leveling stuff over it. But my friend owes us bigtime so I'll get his help.

On a side note, I thought I saw Frodo's bug avatar in the middle of my screen and was confused-- then realized it was a real bug moving around. LOL.
 
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I am going to try and slow cook/smoke a brisket on my gas grill today.
I have never smoked anything before. I made a wood chip smoke bomb and the grill is at an even temp of 250 F. I also added a pan of water.
I keep wanting to lift the lid to see what's happening Like watching water boil. have to just leave it be.

Just that my smoke bomb doesn't seem to be smoking much
 
That looks delicious, Mr.David!

Thanks, Frodo!

Question: I've seen some hookups where they show something called hammer arrestors. I *think* the purpose is to act as a slight reservoir for the water so it doesn't overpower the diverter and make both showerhead and tub spout run at the same time due to the pressure, but am not certain. Should I make something like that out of PEX fittings or see if I can find something that can tie together with threaded copper?
Preferably something that doesn't have to be sweated. The only plumber I actually know and who comes out to my house apparently doesn't sweat copper. I contacted the only other plumber in town and setup an appointment for fixing my water heater connections. He no-showed and I never heard from him again. I'm not comfortable working with fire at all. Walls are made of wood rather than drywall.

p_SCP_190_02.jpg
 
Thanks, Frodo! Are the air chambers made of copper or brass?
Do you have to make them or do they just sell them in that size?

This is the valve and trim I'm thinking of getting: http://www.moen.com/products/Kingsley/Kingsley_Chrome_MoentrolR_valve_trim/T3111

Thinking of getting 3570 valve but wonder if that is the best option. I know it has some sort of stops that you can turn with a screw to turn off water at the valve when working on stuff. Not sure on the CC vs IPS and if the volume control is good or bad. Might end up going for the 3520. Or would the CC require soldering? If I remember correctly, IPS is threaded but I'm trying to remember what CC was. Google says it was soldered?

I know I want whatever is easiest to install (but also want it to be reliable).

Mr.David, how did that brisket turn out?
 
That looks delicious, Mr.David!

Thanks, Frodo!

Question: I've seen some hookups where they show something called hammer arrestors. I *think* the purpose is to act as a slight reservoir for the water so it doesn't overpower the diverter and make both showerhead and tub spout run at the same time due to the pressure, but am not certain. .

The arrestors are like a shock absorber. They hold air and will compress a little to reduce water hammer. If you have a problem with diverter on a tub/shower those will not have any effect. It's either to much pressure or a problem with the diverter.

If you want them for water hammer then use 3/4" . It will hold more air.

I cooked it for 4 hrs. Was a little dry and well done. The smoked flavor was awesome.
I think If I wrapped the meat in foil it would have been juicer but then the smoke would not got into it.
 
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Is "water hammer" when I get spurts of water that come out strong all of a sudden? Because I am currently having a little bit of that-- water suddenly spurts-- pretty sure it's because the pvc hooked to the pump is leaking a bit so air is getting in the line.

Are the hammer arrestors something that are required in IPC 2012? Should I just not bother with them and hook things up similar to this diagram?

install-a-shower-faucet-rona-guelph-building-materials-and-home-installing-shower-valve-with-pex.jpg
 
Is "water hammer" when I get spurts of water that come out strong all of a sudden? Because I am currently having a little bit of that-- water suddenly spurts-- pretty sure it's because the pvc hooked to the pump is leaking a bit so air is getting in the line.

Are the hammer arrestors something that are required in IPC 2012? Should I just not bother with them and hook things up similar to this diagram?

water hammer is a bang when the faucet is turned off. There arrestors wont help with spurting when the faucet is open.

Picture looks good but I would use a brass back ear 90 like the shower arm fitting and secure to a block as well.

I like to use hyco/hyset ells with a hyco strap to secure the shower arm and tub spout.

hyset 90.png

images8BVJ8NGU.jpg

hyco strap.png

Tub  room rebuild (47).jpg
 
water hammer is a bang when the faucet is turned off. There arrestors wont help with spurting when the faucet is open.

Picture looks good but I would use a brass back ear 90 like the shower arm fitting and secure to a block as well.

I like to use hyco/hyset ells with a hyco strap to secure the shower arm and tub spout.

Thanks! Is that something I could connect without sweating copper? Is there a version with both ends threaded? And could I use CPVC or PEX in between the brass fittings?
 
For a shower valve (the Moen one I linked) that does not have a tub spout, how would I cap off the spout to outlet that would normally go to the tub? Can it be done with brass fittings without sweating copper?

I got bored and started doing sketches of washing machine plumbing diagrams.

Is the cleanout a good or bad idea? Should it be moved?
tumblr_ow2ejmfLxk1uwberno2_1280.png

tumblr_ow2ejmfLxk1uwberno3_1280.png


I initially drew the box for the water supply and such but realized it would be a pita to draw the hoses-- but that is why some of the text is in weird spots.
tumblr_ow2ejmfLxk1uwberno1_1280.png
 
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Forget the cleanout on the bottom of the p-trap. I would never use it.
Clean out on vent is good. often see below santee but just above is better.
Don't put to high. power snakes usually sit on floor while cleaning drain.
If the drain and cleanout are behind washer I will usually cover the washer and sit the equipment in top and just go down the stand pipe instead of pulling the washer out to get to the cleanout. if the drain is behind washer put clean out up higher.

What software are you using to draw. That looks pretty nice. I used to use a DeltaCad for planning some woodcraft projects. it was great for getting exact scale and dimension mapped out.
 
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Forget the cleanout on the bottom of the p-trap. I would never use it.
Clean out on vent is good. often see below santee but just above is better.
Don't put to high. power snakes usually sit on floor while cleaning drain.
If the drain and cleanout are behind washer I will usually cover the washer and sit the equipment in top and just go down the stand pipe instead of pulling the washer out to get to the cleanout. if the drain is behind washer put clean out up higher.

What software are you using to draw. That looks pretty nice. I used to use a DeltaCad for planning some woodcraft projects. it was great for getting exact scale and dimension mapped out.

Ok, so it would be better without the cleanout plug on the trap. I'll make adjustments for that. In my own setup, I'm planning to have the cleanout facing the opposite direction toward an open wall where I will have an access panel.

I've since read that AAVs are not a great idea for washing machines because of the amount of pressure when it drains.

I use MS Paint. I sort of cheat sometimes and paste photos in to it and sort of trace the outlines and then erase the texture behind it so it is a line drawing. The washing machine I drew from scratch though.
 
Okay I use paint a lot. Did you make the fittings or were those paste and edit.

Nice job either way.
 
Okay I use paint a lot. Did you make the fittings or were those paste and edit.

Nice job either way.

Thanks!
The P-trap, wye, and tee were paste and edits. The upper cleanout I did by copying the shape of the collars from the tee after I turned it in to a line drawing to make sure I got the right size and then I just used the circle tool for the opening. For the AAV I looked closely at the fitting for the general shape and just used the sizes already used for other fittings in the drawing. For the laundry box and the hot and cold outlets, I did the copy and paste from one that had the standpipe opening in the center. I then realized that trying to get the waterlines to go around the pipe underneath might be awkward so I moved the blue one over. Originally I did the drawing with everything going the opposite way, but I used Flip Horizontal and then made adjustments (having to flip the text as well). I've actually now saved the various fitting / appliance sketches as templates for more drawings so I can paste them in to place if I do more drawings.

Other than the drawing part, I made sure to search online copies of IPC and UPC to find the min/max sizes/distances for things. I believe I read somewhere that IRC allows up to 48" height for standpipe inlet, but since neither IPC nor UPC went up that high, I left it out. One thing I wasn't sure about was whether the height limits started at sort of the center of the bend for the pipe or at the trap weir. Anyone know on that? I want to make my drawings accurate to avoid confusion.
 
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