Inspector failed my DIY job... NEED HELP/ ADVICE

Hey Guys...I came across this forum when I was searching for Back to back toilet drain installs. My inspector told me that my drains are not vented properly and I used the wrong cross wye to connect my toilets. I included some pics...Please if anyone can let me know what I would have to do to bring it to code. House in Long Island and I'm expecting a baby any day now and need to get this solved so I can continue with the project. Thanks!

Before







After





Is there anything wrong with the after before I have him come back to inspect it?? Any help would be greatly apprciated

Where your toilet ties in the first thing it has to connect to before it connects to any other drain or toilet is a vent. Here you have two toilets tied together and no vent at all. On the toilet arm before they connect to your main they need to have a vent connected. Also just curious but I don't see any primer on your joints, sure hope you did prime them.

Not only is the venting incorrect but you have destroyed the floor joist. No primer as Steve pointed out is also a no no. If I'm not mistaken this will be second inspection you have failed.

You guys are right about the primer... I just connected everything dry for now before I glue anything up to make sure that it is correct. The floor joists are going to be sistered and reinforced. My question lies in where would I put a vent if not downstream of the closet elbow? As you can see I have limited room. And because the main drain lands above a finished room downstairs in the center of the room I wouldn't be able to come down with any of the pipes. If I roll that 3x3x2 wye to make the vertical it will interfere with the floor

I'm cringing at that floor joist. The structural integrity of that joist has been compromised and it may break. There are building code restrictions on how far you are allowed to cut in to a joist without it compromising the structure.

You should never EVER cut into the top of a floor joist like that-- especially not a section that wide. Holes must be at least 2 inches from the top and bottom of the joist and must be no larger than 1/3 the size of the joist.

A quick little bit on joists: http://www.familyhandyman.com/floor/how-joists-work/view-all

I'm at a loss as to how to fix that.

I am not certain but I think you are supposed to use a combination wye 1/8 bend


But that still doesn't fix the structural damage. The pipe is too thick to go through the joist.

Edit, Ok. I was posting when you replied and I didn't see your reply until after. I really have no idea. I don't know, I guess you can't add a bulkhead in the floor below and try to make it look decorative? Or perhaps raise the floor in the existing bathroom? Is that a joist directly under the wall? If not you might be able to put the wye in there and sink it down. OR you can have it on top and then raise the floor level. That may not be ideal, but it may be easier than having to mess with the ceiling of the room below.

you also cant use a 90 on its side ( the tub ) your wet vent serving 2 tubs is also incorrect, you cant bump a wet vented portion of pip up or down it must stay the same size throughout the vet vented portion. ( i refer to the original pictures where the pipe changes from 3" to 2" )

and, as others have said. That joist is messed up.

Rip it out. Hire a licenced plumber and save money. And whats up with the end cleanout on the double wye? Thats a leak waiting to happen down the road. Put a permanent cap on that.

My gawd that is one ugly system you created there. There are so many things wrong with it that I would take Matts advice and rip it all out and call a plumber! I'm not in the states but I assume it can't be that far off our code requirements.... You will have nothing but backing up problems. The cleanouts was a cute touch, don't know what service it would provide when it's covered but rip it all out!

MUDZX said:

You guys are right about the primer... I just connected everything dry for now before I glue anything up to make sure that it is correct.

Click to expand...

NEVER NEVER EVER dry fit a drainage system together for fit. When you prime and glue your fittings NOTHING is going to fit. Dry pipes do not seat in to the fitting sockets! Common DIY mistake but one that ensures the drainage system is a disaster.

I love DIYers and help with any advise I can. But I too conclude you do not grasp the concept of plumbing at all and should tear out your mess and hire a real licensed plumber to complete the job. With the baby coming and all I realize you may not be thinking as clearly as you think you are. Take a step back and admit to yourself this project is beyond your abilities. At least you can return the fittings since they have not been glued.

If he hasn't finished the project by now, I am betting he is divorced!

And the kid is growing up.

damn dude, do not quit your day job. kudo's for trying.

if it were me, i would plumb it as a battery

run a 3" trunk line dead center of the wall. turn up with 3" at the end. install a 3" co

turn up behing each lav, use a double combo for the terlets wit a 2" vent before the combo and 1 after

use a 3x2 double wye for shower /tub with vent turned up before d wye

revent. all vents in 2" back to the 3" co. vent stack. run it 3" out the roof

your crap does not look like it has fall. if it aint 1/4 per foot he will red tag it again.
ESPECIALLY since he is coming out for the 2nd time
your crap better be standing at attention, hair cut boots polished for the 2nd inspection

the drawing i did is called battery venting.

Frodo, that had me go look at my plumbing code
914.1 Battery Venting
A branch soil or waste pipe of uniform diameter throughout its length, to which are connected in battery a number of fixtures not exceeding 50% of the fixture units allowed by column two of Table 714.2, may be vented by a circuit or loop vent system connected in front of the last upstream fixture drain. In addition, battery vented branches serving three or more fixtures shall be provided with a relief vent connected in front of the first fixture connection. When lavatories or similar fixtures having a fixture unit rating of four or less and a maximum 2-inch fixture drain discharge from above such branches, each vertical branch shall be provided with a continuous vent. Fixtures having fixture unit ratings greater than four shall not discharge into such branch from above unless all fixtures in the battery group are individually vented. Fixtures from an upper floor shall not discharge into a battery vented branch. Floor level fixtures, including but not limited to floor drains, discharging downstream from a water closet shall be individually vented.

EXCEPTION: The relief vent may be omitted provided a stack vent or vent stack is located downstream of the first horizontal fixture connection.
-
(I had to type that up bc it wouldn't copy the text, so hopefully I didn't miss any words)

SHR, I'm glad you mentioned the dry-fitting. I was going to dry-fit my pipes to get a general idea of the layout. Would gluing make the developed length longer or shorter?

Gluing up PVC always ends up shorter because the glue (in liquid form) adds a form of lubricant, allowing the glued pieces to be pushed in further.

Since its like 4 months since we last heard from the fellow I'd hope he got something inspected by now

4 mths? man!!. i gotta start paying attention to the date.

phishfood said:

If he hasn't finished the project by now, I am betting he is divorced!

Click to expand...

That is for sure! I apologize, I did not notice the previous poster had re-opened an old thread. Never mind.

Thanks, havasu. For some reason I was thinking that the glue might get in the way and make it so the fitting wouldn't go in as far. I guess I can still dry-fit for a rough idea but will have to start gluing things together before anything final on my own projects.

LOL. More like a year and 4 months. This was from 2013.

But sometimes threads show up in searches and the date isn't evident. I found the additional responses useful though-- even if the original poster never sees them. So, no harm done. I think the info is useful enough that subsequent viewers will find it helpful.

IMO I dry fit in critical situations where you need a ball park, god forbid you fitting is out of the hub 1/8" when you glue it, you can always cheat the fitting a bit but yeah you have to take into account when you glue it together. That's just my two cents