Well Pump Replacement

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not-a-plumber

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Location
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Well log:
5/20/1985
6 1/4" diameter
Depth 168'
Pipe (steel) 128'
Rock 40'
Rock type Granite
Water income 20 gpm
Water level 20'

Well seal at the top of the casing - Raleigh, NC

As far as I can tell, the pump is original. I have changed out the pressure tank (fairly large), manifold, pressure switch and gauge in the past year or so.

No problems with the water at all, but I think that I am on borrowed time as far as the pump itself. Once it does fail, I'd like to be ready.

I would like to have the new pump, checkvalve and nipple (brass), 1 1/4" barbed adapter (brass), 1 1/4"160 psi poly, rope, wire, splice kit, torque eliminator and wire protectors purchased and stored away. I would like the replacement pump to last as long as the original and am willing to pay for high quality componants.

Questions:

What pump manufacturer?

Which pump (3/4hp or 1hp and how many gpm)?

Two wire or three wire?

Even though the pump will have an internal check valve, I'm planning to install an additional one right above the pump. Is this correct?

Should I position the pump @ 158'?

Should I position the torque eliminator directly above the pump or at 128' or less?

Does a water level of 20' mean that I will hit water 20' below grade?

Is there a good place online for this purchase or should I just go to a local plumbing supply house?

Thanks for any help.
 
30 views and no replies.

Guess I didn't ask correctly.

I'm just looking for some advise based upon the experience of this group.

Maybe we should just start with an opinion on who makes good pumps.

Home Depot is selling FloTec, but some are plastic and they may all be made in China now.

Lowe's is selling Utilitec pumps, but that is their name brand and I believe that they are Franklin SS pumps.

Home Depot also lists Little Giant pumps, but they are very expensive and I don't know if they are a good value or not.

Any help would really be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Sorry, for the confusion. We have numerous experts in all fields of plumbing, but only a few who specialize with wells. These experts work all day before volunteering their time to help others such as your case. Please be patient and I can assure you they will provide their valuable input as soon as they return here.
 
I am in the Pump Business and sell a couple of brands. I have been selling the Betta Flo from National Pump Co. (Used to be Georgia Pacific until bought out) They have always been a good pump and come with a Franklin Motor. Franklin however has gotten a little overpriced for my money so I went with a pump manufactured in India. It's name is SEI and they make two different pumps. The least expensive is an all stainless pump with plastic impellers. Their Cadillac is the Grundfox knock off. It's all stainless, impellers included. We have had great success with them so far. Their motor is stainless with ball bearings top and bottom. If they are like the old Century that had ball bearings years ago, they will me a great motor. The Centuries lasted forever.

I never liked Torque arresters, but with everybody using plastic pipe these days, one on top of the pump might be a good idea to prevent wire chafing.

Use only the check valve that came in the pump.

I would go in with a 1/2hp 10 gallon per minute. With 20 gpm and a water level of only 20 feet, that is more pump than you will need for a home.

You said you added a bladder tank, I hope you didn't buy it at a big box store. They don't hold up long at all. I also sell tanks and the Zilmet is the best around in my opinion.

You can check things out at: Submersible Pumps
Bladder Tank
 
I agree with Speedbump about the 1/2HP pump, only one check valve, and no torque arrestors.

Pump companies are in a race to see who can cheapen up pumps the most. So the pump market is really screwed up. Not much difference in any pumps these days. However, even cheap pumps like the Flotec will last longer if you don't let them cycle on and off a lot. A Pside-Kick kit with a 4.5 gallon size tank is all you need and the CSV included will greatly reduce the cycling and make the pump last much longer.

Just don't get a pump with a cast iron end bell or motor adapter.
 
Than for the replies.

I bought the tank, manifold,... from a local wholesale plumbing supply house. I didn't like the cheap looking support stands or the replaceable bladder design of the tanks at the big box stores.

I was hoping that the water level of 20' listed in the well driller's log meant that the water level came up to 20' below the surface since all their other measurements were from the surface:
Depth 168'
Pipe 128'
Water level 20'

I guess I'll find out when I pull the pump and drop a line with a bobber down there.

Does Grundfus still make deep well pumps?

I've had good luck with their hot water circulating pumps.
 
Goulds does make deep well jet pumps as well as shallow well. But I don't know about Grundfos. I've never seen a deep well jet by them.

I've never tried the bobber method, but a heavy lead sinker on fish line or string works good. Just juke it up and down as you lower it to listen for the splash.
 
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