Filter causing water pressure issues, need your suggestion!

I have discovered that my water pressure issue is because of my filter. After reading a suggestion on here I removed the filter to test and the water pressure was perfect without it. Of course I need the filter but I'm wondering if a different type of filter would be better? The one I am currently using is Pentek P1-20 Spun Polypropylene Filter

Any suggestions for one with better flow rate??

How is the pressure with a fresh filter? How frequently do you change the element? How heavy is the sediment Do you have a clear filter bowl enabling you to see the condition of the actual filter?

The pressure with a fresh filter is improved but still not great. The sediment seems fairly heavy as a fresh filter only improves water pressure for a short time, I last changed the filter in mid October so about every 3 months however I should have done it sooner it seems. I do not have a clear housing.

What is the micron rating on the filter? 3 and 5 micron filters are very fine and restrictive for filtering very small particles like sand. The higher the rating, the more coarse the filter for picking up bigger particles while allowing more flow.

These in line filters are a major pet peeve to me. They are useless. Do yourself a favor, throw the cartridge away and forget about it. Especially if you have a softener. The softener will catch more sediment than that cartridge anyhow.

speedbump said:

These in line filters are a major pet peeve to me. They are useless.

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Well... Not useless. They have a purpose to serve.

Do yourself a favor, throw the cartridge away and forget about it. Especially if you have a softener. The softener will catch more sediment than that cartridge anyhow.

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Do you see a micron rating on the filter packaging? Is it merely a sediment filter or a combined sediment/charcoal filter?

Is your water supply municipal or well. Have you had a water analysis done?

Allowing the water softener to do the job of filtration (it is meant as a water conditioner) decreases the life of the resin and accelerates back flush events and salt usage.

The complete system has to be designed for one purpose and that is decided mainly by water testing.

Well... Not useless. They have a purpose to serve.

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They do have a purpose, but it's not for filtering drinking water.

Softeners today don't care if the water is soft or not. They simply count gallons and trigger a backwash after the set number of gallons has been reached. The set number of gallons is calculated by knowing the hardness in advance and doing the math. When being used as a softener and iron filter (which I do not recommend) there is a number added to the hardness rate to account for the iron. Trapping out some turbidity has nothing to do with the backwash of the unit, the backwash simply gets rid of the turbidity during the backwash cycle.

If I had a dollar for every cartridge I removed that was practically plugged up to the point of stopping water flow in my years of service, I could have retired long ago.

Well....technically you got paid wages for ever cartridge filter you removed...so congratulations on your retirement!

so congratulations on your retirement!

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Thanks, but I'm retired in name only. I'm still working but old enough to collect my Social Security.

speedbump said:

If I had a dollar for every cartridge I removed that was practically plugged up to the point of stopping water flow in my years of service, I could have retired long ago.

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There is a reason(s) they are plugged, either too fine a micron filter or the filter is not being serviced correctly.

Either you filter the water or your body does.

There is a reason(s) they are plugged, either too fine a micron filter or the filter is not being serviced correctly.

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Have you ever seen one that is installed in the sunlight? Especially one with a clear dome?

speedbump said:

Have you ever seen one that is installed in the sunlight? Especially one with a clear dome?

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Well no as my experience is not as great as yours. But I do heed warnings given by the manufacturer.

Are you referring to material (PVC) breakdown or possibly something growing within the clear bowl?

Are you referring to material (PVC) breakdown or possibly something growing within the clear bowl?

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Algae. Algae grows inside PVC pipe that is in the sunshine. So you can imagine what happens in a clear bowl here in Florida.

speedbump said:

Algae.

Algae grows inside PVC pipe that is in the sunshine. So you can imagine what happens in a clear bowl here in Florida.

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I'd hate to think, but you would install the bowl well away from a sunlight source, correct?

But the algae has to have a food source and that would be in the untreated water (chlorine or peroxide injection). I am going to install H2O2 injection on my system after the first of the year but when I service the filter now, I dump a bottle of peroxide in the bowl and two in the WH.

The clear bowl would enable a home owner (IMO) to keep track of contaminant(s) level(s) especially at different times of the year. I know mine fouls more quickly at certain times of the year and I have gauges to monitor pressure drops.

I'd hate to think, but you would install the bowl well away from a sunlight source, correct?

But the algae has to have a food source and that would be in the untreated water (chlorine or peroxide injection). I am going to install H2O2 injection on my system after the first of the year but when I service the filter now, I dump a bottle of peroxide in the bowl and two in the WH.

The clear bowl would enable a home owner (IMO) to keep track of contaminant(s) level(s) especially at different times of the year. I know mine fouls more quickly at certain times of the year and I have gauges to monitor pressure drops.

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Most all systems in our area are out in the yard. This is where most inline filters are installed. Right in the open. This is not to say that everyone gets an inline filter when a driller installs a system. Most of us would never install one. They come later from the big box stores or from some handyman who needs to make a few bucks. As I said before, these units are useless. There is no need to use chlorine or h202 in well water in most instances because there is no harmful bacteria to kill. If I had water that had harmful bacteria in it, I would be drilling a better safer well.

speedbump said:

Most all systems in our area are out in the yard. This is where most inline filters are installed. Right in the open.

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See, I am still learning...

What, jet pump?

There is no need to use chlorine or h202 in well water in most instances because there is no harmful bacteria to kill. If I had water that had harmful bacteria in it, I would be drilling a better safer well.

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Well, there you go.

If on a one acre lot say, how would one be guaranteed a newly drilled well would supply cleaner water? Talking big bucks here. It is not so much as bacteria I am trying to control (other than iron bacteria) but hydrogen sulfide (smell).

And I would feel much better knowing nothing can slip through that might possibly harm my aged and frail ecosystem...

The water here (WV) is terrible.

See, I am still learning...

What, jet pump?

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Jet pump or submersible. Jet's are becoming a thing of the past though.

Well, there you go.

If on a one acre lot say, how would one be guaranteed a newly drilled well would supply cleaner water? Talking big bucks here. It is not so much as bacteria I am trying to control (other than iron bacteria) but hydrogen sulfide (smell).

And I would feel much better knowing nothing can slip through that might possibly harm my aged and frail ecosystem...

The water here (WV) is terrible.

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There are no guarantees in Well Drilling except for the fact that going beyond 20' will guarantee safer water. The surface water here is at around 15 to 20 feet. Anything the farmers put on the ground is still in that water in not safe quantities. Once the rain water is filtered down through enough sand (generally 6' or better) the water is filtered quite well and the more sand it penetrated the less chemical and bugs will be in that water. The PH will also be increased from as low as 5 to 7.2 or slightly higher. Where the guarantee goes away is how much mineral is picked up on the way. Hardness (calcium and magnesium) Iron (ferric and ferrous), hydrogen sulfide (sulfur; rotten egg odor) and sometimes manganese (similar to iron). Here in my area, deeper usually means harder with more sulfur. The chance of harmful bacteria however is non existent if the well is properly constructed.
Adding chemicals to good well water with minerals is not necessary. I have a unit that will remove your iron and sulfur without the need for any chemicals. To remove hardness, a softener is needed and salt has to be used. (NOT MAGNETS) ((That's a whole new topic))

speedbump said:

Adding chemicals to good well water with minerals is not necessary. I have a unit that will remove your iron and sulfur without the need for any chemicals.

To remove hardness, a softener is needed and salt has to be used. (NOT MAGNETS) ((That's a whole new topic))

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Yeah, I got tricked by the supposed SALT-FREE softener (bead style not electric)

I have read a properly sized back flushing charcoal filter will replace both my present sediment filter (and iron filter) and a peroxide injector. Going to have to cipher on that one a little more.

I just hate the thought of the pressure tank and switch being fouled (iron-mang-tannin) before hitting the charcoal filter.

A carbon filter is for taste and odor along with removing chlorine and many heavy metals. It is NOT for removing iron. It will remove iron to a certain extent, but it's life will be greatly reduced by the iron. If you have tannin, you must have a shallow well and live where Cypress trees grow.

You say the carbon filter will replace your cartridge filter. Yes it will, so will your softener.