Need help with shower valve

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OD354

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Hello,

I am really hoping someone can help. I retiled my shower but I didn’t replace the shower valve system as I intended to reuse the existing one, just with new hardware. What I was unaware of at the time was that there are so many valve different proprietary systems and I have been unable to identify the old one that is still in place. Is there any way to avoid removing the new title I installed to get to the valve system in order to replace it with a new one? Are there manufacturers that make universal systems? I am really hoping to avoid removing the new tile...thanks in advance for any assistance.

-OD354
 
if you know the name brand of the valve you can match a trim kit for it.. if you dont then the answer would be no pull the tile down and replace the valve with a Delta to ensure you can get parts for it in the future
 
where do you live? if you take apicture of the valve then call Home Plumbing in elmhurst Illinois, ask them for their email and send them the pic. if they dont know what it is then you may have to replace the valve. these guy are good and specialize in hard to find or unusual faucets and parts.
 
You could always post a pic of the valve here. We have a pretty high success rate of identifying odd valves.
 
ok so I have determined that the original hardware and valve system is an older MOEN product, but I still do not know what current MOEN line will work as a replacement trim kit reusing the valve system. Attached are two photos, if anyone can identify a compatible product line or give advice I would greatly appreciate it.

-OD

IMAG0063.jpg

IMAG0064.jpg
 
It is an older line that uses a 1225b cartridge. Any line that uses this cartridge such as the old-style adler should work, although it may be hard to find since everything has now moved to the 1222 cartridge. Your best bet would be to call moen's 800 number and ask them what is still available.
 
oh, and you can use any almost any moen trim that is for a moen-trol valve. if it is the old style valve you would have two screw holes on the bottom of the valve to secure the face plate. if it is new style you will have the holes at 10 oclock and five oclock positions. moen sells a conversion kit to go from old to new style then just pick out you trim and install. also you will need to open the tile around the valve for the screws.
 
Ugh. Just to be clear: This is not necessarily a moentrol valve. Moentrol valves are pressure balanced and have screw holes at 2 and 7. A non-pressure balanced moen has holes at 5 and 7. You need to know which you have before buying a trim kit. (You are also going to need access to those holes to attach your trim)

The conversion kit lordofthepipes is talking about is moen service part # 145058
 
thank you both for all your input., it has helped tremendously and is greatly appreciated. My valve is the standard with holes at 5 and 7 so I will purchase the conversion kit as you indicated. Do I still need to be concerned with the cartridge type (i.e. 1225b or 1222)? One additional question, when you mentioned I may need to add an extension on the valve stem, can you explain that a little further and is it a MOEN specific product or a generic?

-OD
 
You cartridge is a 1225b. As for the extension kit, I know moen makes one for positemp showers but I don;t know if it would work on the older styles. I haven;t taken an old moen apart in a while and can't remember if the barrel around the 1225 cartridge is as big as the one around the 1222 (i know the cartridge itself is much smaller).
 
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yeah, the barrel is smaller and i have a extension kit on my truck for the (standard) valve. i will get the part number for you later today. you may not need it, buy the trim, install it, if the handle has enough room to turn on then shut completely off when you push it in then you don't need it.
 
lol, there are NO screw holes for the plate, you will have to remove ALOT of tile, and a ext kit is in order...
 
Mreh, knowing that the screw holes are at 5 and 7 he could always drill carefully through the tile with an over sized tile bit to access them, hopefully avoiding tile removal.
 
I'm afraid him trying to drill thru the tile and being able to match up the holes would be virtually impossible. I'd recommend pulling out a hand grinder after marking the plate on the tile, to ensure he doesn't cut too much.
 
you guys may think it sounds crazy but i have found that a sawzal and a cast iorn blade work the best to cut out tile. i tryed it on a job replacing a three handle tub shower valve with a single lever, also needed a remodle plate, anyway couldent find my dremmel and dident want togo back to the shop. it worked AWSOME! very low dust and i was able to scroll with the blade no problem.
 
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