Question regarding plumbing in new fixtures

We're adding a bathroom to our basement, but to save money we used a family member (a licensed plumber) to do the sewer work.

Unfortunately, our family friend isn't available at the moment (away on vacation), and we need to start strapping the ceiling before we can reach him.

I feel comfortable with doing the work, but I have a few technical questions.


The house has copper plumbing on city water. The main cold line is 1" copper. I'm likely going to use PEX to plumb the new fixtures.

The bathroom will have a sink, toilet and a Urinal with a 3/4" 0.5gpf flushometer.

My question is this: should I "T" off the 1" copper main line with a 1"pex pipe? And then branch off at the bathroom (20feet away) into the 3/8" sink, toilet and 3/4" urinal?

Or should I just run a 3/4" line off of the 1" main, and then use that to go strait to the urinal (t-ing off the 3/4line for the sink and toilet?)?

I would give the urinal it's own branch off the 1" main. Then feed 3/4 over to the bathrooms and 1/2" feeding the sinks and toilet. On the finish you can install 1/2" pex by 3/8" comp shut off valves to feed your fixtures.

If you are using a flush valve to flush the urinal. it is activated by water pressure.

not enough, it runs, and wont shut off.

in my bathroom i use a

3/4 automatic spring closing valve.

instead of a flush valve..WAY cheaper.

the spring valve is around 60 bucks instead of a couple hundred

frodo said:

If you are using a flush valve to flush the urinal. it is activated by water pressure.

not enough, it runs, and wont shut off.

in my bathroom i use a

3/4 automatic spring closing valve.

instead of a flush valve..WAY cheaper.

the spring valve is around 60 bucks instead of a couple hundred

Click to expand...

I'm fairly certain the water pressure in our home is adequate for a flushometer. I haven't put a gauge to it yet, but water pressure has never been an issue.

That being said: are spring valves safe to use with urinals? Do you know of any that are compatible with a rear-spud setup?

spring valve is nothing more than a valve that closes when you let go of it.

I do my business, then turn the valve,and walk away. it lets water in the urinal, and closes



IF, you use a flush valve.

from the top of your urinal.

your water needs to be roughed in 11 1/2 top of fixture to center pipe

and from center fixture 4 3/4'' to the left if you want to flush with your RH

or 4 3/4'' to the right if you flush with your LH

i flush with my left, my RH is busy

Which hand is holding the tweezers?

I use forceps . tweezers are to big

like to add. if you do use a flush valve. you ned to stub out of the wall with copper.

not only stub out with copper, but the transision to copper needs to be a minimum 12'' from the stub out.

it will require a torch to sweat a ''sweat kit'' http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/meAZhPUAADBoJu6ogbV9hng.jpg

on to the pipe, on trim.

also, what size is the wall for the urinal . the drain adapter will require no smaller than a 2x6 framed wall

Flush-Tite Adjustable Urinal Flange

Urinal Flange


Features

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Horizontal slots accomodate mounting centers from 3 1/2 to 7"

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Kits include Flange, Bolts, Nuts, Washers, and Gaskets

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Available for Spigot or Socket Joint,,,[ you want spigot]]

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Fits 2" Sch.40 DWV Pipe