Shall I take a look at my BW anode rod myself?

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USP45

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Hi folks -
I'm your typical Harry Homeowner without much knowledge of plumbing, but I'm always willing to give anything a try.

Earlier this year we drained our Bradford-White 38 gallon tank because I heard that was a good thing to do (to get rid of sediment). I thought I'd also check the anode rod but couldn't locate it! (I heard they're usually located on top of the unit.)

Eventually I did find out that apparently on mine it's attached to the hot water outlet nipple.

So:
1. Shall I have another go at this? If yes is the hot water outlet nipple typically the drain valve at the bottom of the tank (the same one I used to drain it)? Or is it the valve farther up (on mine there's another valve half-way up)? Any other tips/tricks?

2. Or should I just call a pro?
 
What do you expect to see if you do get it out?

Haha, well I usually lower my expectations hoping for a pleasant surprise. SO I'm expecting to see the rod worn down to nothing. But obviously am hoping for some amount of rod left with just some crusting.
 
All the anode rods I have seen on water heaters are nothing more than a six sided nut that a 1' wrench would probably fit; protruding from the top of the heater somewhere on top near the cold and hot fittings. Naturally the tin lid must be removed to access it.
 
All the anode rods I have seen on water heaters are nothing more than a six sided nut that a 1' wrench would probably fit; protruding from the top of the heater somewhere on top near the cold and hot fittings. Naturally the tin lid must be removed to access it.

YES, and all the YouTube videos show the same thing, which is why it threw me off not finding that. It's starting to look more and more that this one combines the anode rod with the hot-water fitting itself.
 
If you can get the tin lid off, tank a snapshot and post it here. I'm sure there is someone who can point it out.
 
Good idea. Here's a couple snaps. I think it's the one on the left (since the one on the right looks like cold intake).

All the YouTube vids I could find describe a separate anode rod, not one combined with the hot water outlet.

2015-01-26165234_zps7cfee287.jpg


2015-01-26165547_zpsd4920e3d.jpg
 
I'm not sure what I'm looking at. The top picture looks like you drew a red box around a ground clamp and #8 wire. That is either the inlet or outlet and the other in/out pipe is obvious and since it has a gate valve on it, it has to be the cold. The second picture I have no idea what it is. The first picture is too dark everywhere else.
 
The first picture is where 1)I'm asking for validation that the anode rod is connected to this and 2) if it is, any tips/tricks?

The second picture is the same thing as the first but just under the hood.

Here's a third larger perspective picture if that helps:

2015-01-28072352_zpsed693c1c.jpg
 
I see that what I thought was a ground clamp is actually a tap for your ice cube maker most likely.

I don't know a thing about gas heaters and I am quite sure that's what you have. The only experience I've had with water heaters have been the electric version.

I'm surprised one or more of the "REAL" Plumbers haven't chimed in and straightened us both out.
 
not a ground wire, that is a saddle tap for a water line. what line ? dunno

copied off the bradford white site, the link posted. click on "accessories" and or parts

For most water heaters, the anode rod is attached to the hot water outlet of the water heater. If you are facing the front of the water heater (where the labels are), the hot water outlet is on the left hand side. The anode rod is often referred to as a “sacrificial rod”.

Most water is rarely “pure”. It can contain oxygen, magnesium, fluoride, chlorine and suspended particles. These components, in the concentrations in your water, are usually not bad for you. However, they do contribute to the taste and smell of the water. They also impart a slight conductivity to the water. Through an electrical process called electrolysis, this conductivity will eventually (over a long period of time) cause most metal to rust or corrode. When the water is heated, this electrical process can be accelerated.

Most water heaters are made of a steel tank with a porcelain enamel (glass) lining. However, due to production and assembly methods, it is not always possible to completely cover the inside of the tank. Therefore it’s important to provide metal that can be consumed by the electrical process. This is where the sacrificial anode rod comes in. By acting as a lightning rod for the corrosion process, the anode rod draws the harmful electrolytic process away from the water heater tank and focuses the corrosion on the anode rod. Even though the Bradford White manufacturing process is the best in the industry, our water heaters need this sacrificial anode rod to ensure that the electrolysis doesn’t affect the tanks. For more information on the anode rods, please see our technical support section for Service Bulletin #122.
 
My opinion is that you already have what appears to be a very old water heater. I see no way you could even view the anode rod without cutting your hot water side and removing it. If you are going to that extent, I personally would replace with a new model, which is going to last you well into the next decade.
 
Havasu, without a second hand on the readout, we will never know which of us hit the send button first.;) 10:06 AM exactly.
 
Great minds think alike SB!

Also, to the original poster, I just realized that your vent appears to be a schedule 40 PVC pipe. That is a big red flag and you should take action soon.
 
I couldn't agree more.

And on the PVC Vent, I kind of thought that looked a little strange too.
 
In his last picture there was some kind of screen looking thing on one half of the top foot or so. I suppose the rod would be below that... right?
 
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