Stuck On A Problem- Toilet Flange Replacement

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IHS

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Hello, I am replacing a broken toilet flange and have already removed the old flange. The bathroom flooring is an engineered wood floor. When the floor was installed they ran it all the way to the sewer pipe except for one side (opposite where the flange was cracked). The flange bolts are uneven because of this. One sits on the subfloor and the other on top of the wood floor. I presume that is why the old flange cracked because of the play between the uneven bolts. I need help in determining a solution. Should I cut the the wood floor away so the new flange secures directly to the subfloor? Will I need to add a spacer or double wax ring at that point since the flange will sit below the finished floor? The wood is 3/8" thick. Thanks in advance for the help.

flange pic1 (Small).jpg

flange pic2 (Small).jpg
 
Use four large and long wood screws through the holes in the ring of the flange to secure the flange to the subfloor. When you do, do not overtighten them to the point that the flanges is bowed downward. Also, I like flanges with a stainless steel ring. These won't crack or rust, like plastic or painted steel can.

The closet bolts will pull up against the bottom of the flange when you start to tighten them. Actually, I like to use double washers and nuts so that I can clamp the bolts solidly to the flange before I set the bowl. Or, use plastic/nylon closet bolts from Sioux Chief, which are the bee's knees of all closet bolts.
 
Phishfood, Do you mean secure the flange to the finish floor instead of the subfloor.
 
I mean that the poster should use screws long enough to penetrate through the finish floor and well into the subfloor. Many finish floors are not securely adhered to the subfloor, so you need to reach down to the subfloor to properly anchor the flange.
 
Phishfood, I am sorry i though you where telling him to install the flange on the subfloor --- My bad.
 
Phishfood- thanks for the advice. I will definately use long wood screws so it will attach to the subfloor. My original question is how should I address the fact that one side of the flange is over the finished wood while the other side is over the subfloor only due to the way the floor was installed. You can see in my first pic the wood is cut away on the right side of the flange. Because of this one closet bolt is resting on top of the finished wood and the other is over the part that has no finished wood under it- just the subfloor. I assume this will cause play in the flange and cause another break. My latest idea is to cut a triangular piece of the prefinished wood (I have pieces of it I can use) to fit that area that was cut away, secure it to the subfloor with wood screws and then put the flange on so both bolts would then be at the same height underneath. Does that make sense? Is that what you would do? Thanks again all for responding. This is a great forum.
 
There is no need to do that. As you tighten the nut when you set the toilet, the bolt will pull up against the flange, the same as the side with the finished floor. Just screw it down, and make sure that you shim the toilet if it rocks before you apply grout or caulking. An unshimmed toilet is the biggest cause of broken flanges.
 
Great- thanks so much Phishfood. I am on my upstairs to finish this project right now! I really appreciate your help and response to my questions.
 

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