Can't hear water running down well casing, no wet spot in yard

My pressure switch clicks on pump down in well casing turns on runs 15-20 seconds switch clicks pump shuts off stays off 5 seconds switch clicks pumps turns bac on happens 24\7 with all facets shut off. I don't hear water running down in the casing when pump is running (I can hear pump just humming away), no wet spot in yard or under house in crawl space, no leaks inside the house. I figured just buy new gauge new pressure switch see if that fixes the problem. The house was built in 1987 I bought it in 1997 have never had a problem with this well.

Any other suggestions would greatly appreciated

Bad check valve.

That's kinda what my brother and I just talked bout maybe the pump kicks on fills pressure tank then kicks off and all water in main line drains losing pressure causing pump to kick bac on? Is check valve located on the pump?

Some are part of the pump. Others are on the line feeding the tank.

There's nothing of the sort, main line comes in house into a cast iron tee one end has pressure gauge, pressure switch then turns in copper pipe feeding the house other end of tee goes straight to bottom of pressure tank.

If it helps when I shut breaker off to pump I could hear water draining out of pressure tank back down the main line. Think I talking myself into pulling the pump???

Then It,s part of the pump. You can put one on the line feeding the tank but there is a possibility that you may get a hammer when the pump turns off. But it's worth a try.

OK john thank you very much I'll look into doing that it's about 200ft deep so that may save me a lot of money.

Pull the pump up and install an in line check valve close to the head of the pump. You will always get bursts of air in your pipes if you allow 200+ feet of line to drain

Matt30 said:

Pull the pump up and install an in line check valve close to the head of the pump. You will always get bursts of air in your pipes if you allow 200+ feet of line to drain

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The line won't drain unless the is a way that air can enter it. Just like holding your finger over a straw filled with water.

Could also be a hole/leak in the drop pipe. Depending on the quality of the pipe and the particulars of the water, 28 year old pipe could be rusted through.

If you decide to pull it yourself, be VERY careful.

I worked with a guy who almost lost his hand doing this. He did loose 2 1/2 months of work until it healed enough to come back to light duty.

johnjh2o said:

The line won't drain unless the is a way that air can enter it. Just like holding your finger over a straw filled with water.

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Sorry sir, gonna have to disagree on that one. Most of the time, it's true. But I see it all the time. When left standing, you will get air pockets in the line. A check valve at the tank will stop the pump from oscillating, but if the pump kicks on while there's water passing through it backwards, you risk damaging the impellers.

Matt30 said:

Sorry sir, gonna have to disagree on that one. Most of the time, it's true. But I see it all the time. When left standing, you will get air pockets in the line. A check valve at the tank will stop the pump from oscillating, but if the pump kicks on while there's water passing through it backwards, you risk damaging the impellers.

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Where are the air pockets coming from?

I am no expert on wells and pumps. But I see check valves at the top of the well head all of the time around here.

johnjh2o said:

Where are the air pockets coming from?

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Water runs back thru the pump into the well. With a check valve at he pressure tank, you now have air in the line

Matt I think we are talking about two different pumps. I was referring to a submersible pump. Not a jet pump.

I would lean more toward the holes in the pipe. More than likely where the two dissimilar metals come together - at the pump. The threads are probably eaten through. Your also doing a lot of damage to your motor letting it go on and off like that.

Putting a check valve up top will mask any other problems down below and may (as the holes get larger) allow the pump to run constantly because it can no longer make shut off pressure.

Another thing is the length of time the pump runs to fill the tank. Sounds like the tank is bad also.

There are a lot of check valves up top here too since the Plumbing inspector (who knows more than I do) made it part of the code.

Thanks everyone for your help, I cut power to well pump and water out of all lines and pressure tank drained back down the main line. When I put power back to pimp it started working just fine. Had to just be check or foot valve stuck open.