Leak issue

Is the chrome tailpiece ovaled. that 1 1/4" washer should fit tight on that tailpiece. Also, check that it isn't leaking from higher up and pooling around that nut. I have seen many pop-ups leak at the bottom of the sink connection.

CT-18 said:

Is the chrome tailpiece ovaled. that 1 1/4" washer should fit tight on that tailpiece. Also, check that it isn't leaking from higher up and pooling around that nut. I have seen many pop-ups leak at the bottom of the sink connection.

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yes the 1 1/4 washer goes around the chrome piece and fits well.
I looked at the pipe while I was draining water and I can see the water building up and coming from in between the chrome pipe and the washer.
It looks like for some reason the washer does not create a perfect seal.

Before I continue fixing this leak I need to work on another mystery.
While I was testing the leak I was turning the cold water on and off and the washer in the T element that connects cold and hot water to the middle part of the faucet where the water comes out broke and I have another leak.
The pipe of the faucet is 5/8 OD małe or somewhere close to it.
The T element ID is some where close to 5/8 female and the washer that is there is just short of 5/8. I meassured the inside with the Electronic caliper and IT shows 39/64 so thats is close to 5/8.

Home depot or ace hardware don't have any washers like that.
Any ideas where to get it and what size is that?

see attached photos

Edit: I got this faucet from pottery barn so it might be some custom china made thing

Only thing I haven't seen, are you putting the rubber washer on correctly. Should seal. Am a service plumber. Seen it numerous times where the washer is upside down and the home owner doesn't know why it continues to leak. Also, don't glue anything there unless it's a last resort. If you ever need to have the drain cleared it could be a real pain.

If this is a brand new faucet I would go to faucet barn and show them what broke and let them replace it for you. On your leaky drain can you show a picture so we can see the gasket on the pipe like Blair mentioned.

TomFOhio said:

If this is a brand new faucet I would go to faucet barn and show them what broke and let them replace it for you. On your leaky drain can you show a picture so we can see the gasket on the pipe like Blair mentioned.

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Faucet is new but purchased it years ago. Pottery barn gave me 2 faucets so i had one waiting for emergency. Finally i needed it but unfortunately the washer broke too fast. If i dont find a washer i plan to connect a bushing that will convert the male pipe to 1/2MIPS and i will connect it to 1/2FIPS that will connect to the T where hot and cold comes.

justin_dewan90 said:

Only thing I haven't seen, are you putting the rubber washer on correctly. Should seal. Am a service plumber. Seen it numerous times where the washer is upside down and the home owner doesn't know why it continues to leak. Also, don't glue anything there unless it's a last resort. If you ever need to have the drain cleared it could be a real pain.

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I think i put it correctly. The side that is beveled goes down.
Funny part is that i had my kitchen remodel recently and all my pipes there and connectors have tons of putty paste there. I told my installer that in my opinion putty should not be put there but because he cut the pipes uneven he was forced to used putty to slop the leaks but this is a story for another post.

Might go get you a new trap repair kit and redo it yourself. Did the remodel worker cut the tailpiece to short and it's barely sticking in the trap? If he used putty, then something is definitely wrong. I use those repair kits constantly and the only issue I have is that I can't use the pvc nut to connect to brass. That's the only time I've had those leak. The repair kits will run you between 5-10 bucks. No need for putty on those joints. If you are really that concerned about them leaking I've seen people use liquid teflon but me personally I don't. Never have had any leak issues once I'm done.

Only other thing I can recommend is using the rubber washer adapter to go from inch and a quarter to inch and a half. Some pop up tailpieces I deal with are inch and a quarter and they make a larger rubber washer to fit that specific need.

So i was able to fix the leak connecting the faucet middle element and water.
I used the bushing to convert 3/8 male to 1/2 MIPS and then i used the flex wire to connect to T and hot and cold. It was impossible to find a replacement washer.

I put the drain P trap back and i still see the leak.
What i found out is that there is a leak where the silver pipe connects to the other part that is screwed to the sink.

I marked the leak with red marker on the photo.
I think that it is safe to use silicon there?

Once i silicon it i will check if i still can see the leak coming from the P-trap.

The leak from the P-trap i was seeing could be actual leak that i discovered but because it was behind it looked like the P-trap was leaking.

Unthread that from the pop up and reseal with teflon. Should always seal that joint with teflon.

That chrome tailpiece unscrews out of there. Take it apart and use pipe dope and then put it back together. I think this was mentioned earlier in your thread to check this. Don't put silicone around it as it will still leak.

Sorry Justin I didn't see that you wrote this too. Didn't realize there were 4 pages. But yes you hit it on the head.

thx guys
i did exactly what you told me.
Did not know that this pipe unscrews.
So far no leak anywhere. Crossing fingers!!!

What i also noticed is that the faucet valve for the hot water moves little tighter then before. I had it disconnected with no water for a week as i was searching for the washer. Does it mean it corroded inside as this was a hot water due to lack of contact with water and it being exposed to air?
Can i unscrew that valve and put some vinegar there or something to get rid of corrosion or its not fixable and the valve will fail over time?

thx