thread sealant

Now that I know you have a cistern, I would have recommended a submersible if the cistern would keep up with one.

it's 8' to 10' of water... my old utilitech 1/2 hp jet pump with pressure tank never ran it down completely, which is what i want. i reckon i can throttle down this new pump via my ball valve at the hose side. that's the plan.

i didn't know this type well is known as a cistern...

i'm very ignorant regarding wells

It's a hand dug well. Done before the days of drive points. These guys were some pretty tough customers and definitely weren't claustrophobic.

i believe you are correct speedbump. this is old town where i live ( plated in the 1800's) and i've seen several other exact same cisterns on my street. some got buried but i got lucky when i bought this property and they left the well alone.

finished plumbing pump now waiting for an electrician to wire it... do i by pass the pressure switch box entirely? or can i circumvent it inside the box.

Looks pretty good. I'm not sure what you mean on the switch. Aren't you using a pressure tank? If you were going to use it strictly for watering flowers, you could turn it on manually with a switch in which case you could wire through the pressure switch or just connect the two hot wires to the same terminals as the motor wires.

thanks speedbump

no iam not using a pressure tank. i only use it briefly for watering the garden. i want to turn it on manually. i have a wall switch and cable i just need to know where to wire it. "thru the pressure switch" - "two hot wires to the same terminals as the motor wires." this is what i will do just have to find the right wire terminals.

thanks.

You can use spade connectors or just wrap the wires around the same screws the motor wires are on. There are only four terminals in the pressure switch. Two with wires two without. Or you can simply wire nut them together inside the pressure switch. There is more room in the switch than there is in the back of the motor.

thanks once more for detailed instructions.

i shall proceed.

you need to use viberation isolation under that pump.

it will take the vibration out ,,,,viberation is what makes your plastic pie fittings leak at the plastic to metal conection


does not have to be fancy, find you some neoprene,,,,stack them up to give you about 1/2'' under your pump

drill a hole thru them to bolt the pump down.

thanks frodo,

i have 1/2" slab of rubber horse mat under the pump... the pump is thru bolted into that cedar 4x4 and is fairly tightly snugged down. today my electrician friend is coming by to wire the pump and a light fixture up...

of course my biggest fear is that i will have a leak but i've taken special care to teflon tape the threads and glue the pvc thoroughly. with luck i'll be ok... i have left the top brass plug loose so as to remove it and prime the pump... on speedbumps recommendation i shall prime then turn on the pump and tighten when suction is complete...

thanks everyone for your excellent help.

yesterday i wired the pump up as speedbump suggested and everything works fine... i'm turning the pump on manually with a wall switch. no leaks and i get about 58lbs of pressure on the gauge. the pump seems solid on it's 4x4" cedar bed with rubber horse matt for vibration reduction. this setup is perfect for watering our garden.

Now that you have gotten that out of the way, maybe you can start giving some of us with brown thumbs some gardening tips!

i would be happy too. but i'm brown thumb no. 1...

my wife however is an excellent gardener and i will be happy show proof as the season progresses... tomatoes, peppers etc zone 6/7

will keep forum updated regarding this new goulds pump and how it preforms (without pressure tank) for garden watering...

We will be looking for updates and free samples.

Do remember that if someone turns off the water but not the pump, it will nuke in about 10 minutes or so. I can't tell you the exact time it takes for one to heat, get to boiling temp melt the impeller and diffuser. But it's not that long.

thanks speedbump...

i have given notice that such is so... therefore in all watering regimes this pump will have free flow. i'm finding it best at the 60lb. pressure to just leave it on full and shut off as needed rather than throttle it back to adjust a lesser flow with the ball valve.

The reason i brought up vibration isolation,

It is the #1 leak causer..LOL. on plastic pipe to the pump.

even with the pad under the pump. you say its tight? loosen it up.

the isolater cant work if its squished to nothing.

they make stainless seel flex connectors, that you might want to invest in,,at some point.

the isolater? sorry i don't follow... what is an isolater?

where exactly does a stainless steel flex connector go? on the suction side?

but you are correct i do get a lot of vibration... the sound changes when i put pressure on my framed in well cabinet. the pump is mounted to two cedar 4x4's which are not fasten to anything yet... they merely sit on the concrete floor and straddle the floor joist of the well cabinet ... i have considered locking down the ends which are mortised to the framed cabinet... but i haven't run the pump long enough to decide yet...

thanks for the valuable advice frodo... seriously... i need to be aware of this stuff