How do you guys seal your threads?

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Chris

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Just curious on what product you guys use when assembling fittings? There is a few different way to do it and I was at my local supply house today when the question came so i was just curious.
 
Teflon tape and V2 jet lube dope. I use both when its water lines (constant pressure) if its gas usually I just dope.
 
I have been using Rectorseal #5 for the last couple years with great results.
 
Blue Monster tape and RectorSeal #5. On my day job, when I run gas, I just use the pipe dope they supply, which is Oatey Blue Magic, since they don't want to buy gas rated tape.
 
Blue Monster tape and RectorSeal #5. On my day job, when I run gas, I just use the pipe dope they supply, which is Oatey Blue Magic, since they don't want to buy gas rated tape.

Do you use tape and #5 at the same time and if so why? Just curious.
 
I thought that the Members of this Forum / US & Canadian Plumbers / Pipe Fitters adhered to the `Theory` that threaded Joints do NOT require any Jointing Compound / Sealant etc. - ?

I have had arguments about that point on here - as it is obvious that threaded joints DO require Jointing Compound / Tape or other forms of Sealing the Joints.

When I was `arguing` this point I do not recall any `support` for what I was stating - I.E: that the Joints must be Sealed.

Although I was primarily arguing this point in relation to Mild Steel / Black Iron Pipe - tapered threaded joints of almost every kind require sealing.


I see now that Members DO use Jointing Compound / Teflon Tape on their threaded joints !


Chris
 
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Well in school here Canada they claim Teflon and dope only lubricate and not seal the joint, I don't believe it myself but that's what they teach us. I think theoretically you don't need either considering they only lubricate the threads to make it easier to get more turns on your pipe to seal the connection, the taper is what makes the seal. Not saying I agree with that totally or believe it entirely. I think it would be pretty dumb to just throw together some threaded connections without tape or dope, hell I do both in almost all cases.
 
The disagreement was that it's the tapered threads that seal the joint not the joint compound. If the joint compound did all the sealing there would be no need for tapered threads. If they were running threads no joint compound could make the joint water or gas tight.

John
 
I didn't start this thread as a debate as to why or why not sealant/lube should or should not be used but was just curious on what others used, whether you do or do not need to use it we all do for one reason or another.

When those of you that use tape and dope use it, do you tape first or after the dope?
 
johnjh2o said:
The disagreement was that it's the tapered threads that seal the joint not the joint compound. If the joint compound did all the sealing there would be no need for tapered threads. If they were running threads no joint compound could make the joint water or gas tight.

John

I can agree with that, I think joint compound assists in sealing but you are right it's truly the tapered threads that seal. But I definitely feel the tape and/or dope help a bit with the seal as well as lubricate, but maybe that's just me :p
 
The guys at my old company used to dope then tape. I thought that was kinda a waste of tape myself.
 
Yeah I've seen guys do it but yeah I say tape then dope. The reason the guy I worked with did it that way was then if you dope then tape you don't really have to wipe your joint and its a little less messy.
 
Nice thread, Chris. I just had this same discussion with a new co-worker on friday and we had differing opinions. Here's my take on it.
On ips water line connections I use Hercules Megaloc. First, 2 or 3 wraps with teflon tape, then the dope. I always try to leave the first one or two threads with nothing on them to keep the tape/dope from being pulled into the flow and boogering-up any screens or appurtenances downstream.
Note: I apply the "first two threads" rule to gas lines also, since the sealants could also affect gas regulators and control valves.
On gas lines I use Rectorseal 5 for new installs 1" and below. If the fittings have already been 'worked' (had pipe in them) I will use the tape/dope combo with Megaloc to get a good seal.
On gas lines over 1" I use Hercules Block sealant. It has the consistency of acrylic paint and cannot be wiped to clean up the fitting (it just smears...like acrylic paint) but gives a great seal for big jobs where re-do's could cost time and money.
Density of ptfe tapes, in my opinion, are a matter for manufacturers. Some may say that white, yellow, pink and green are for specific jobs. I believe that the installer knows what works best for him/her through their experience.
I've had my fare share of heated debates and code battles at supply house counters, but my experiences and results are the best proof.
I also profess to others that "every day is a day to learn something new". So, I welcome more comments to see if I'm on the right track, too.
 
I agree, everyone has their own take on what works best. I use yellow gas tape and dope and have never had a leak. Installer knows best in this case
 
I use only pipe dope for everything. I hardly ever use tape. A big pet peeve of mine is seeing Teflon tape on shower heads. It's there forever and looks like crap.
 
I just installed two shower heads on a higher end trimout today, and I used blue tape and #5. You can't even tell I used any type of thread sealant, though. I removed the extra tape and dope, so all you see is chrome.
 
I agree with phish, I still tape and dope, just clean it up real nice and it looks good. Or don't tape the last 3 threads if possible and it should be an easy clean up afterwards.
 
I do think that tape and dope is overkill. Dope is technically only a lubricant and the threads do the sealing. Adding extra steps makes up for bad China threads, or it just not being tight enough. A lot of the old nice houses around Detroit used brass threaded water pipe and they didn't use anything but a drop of oil on the threads. Brass is obviously softer and does a good job of sealing itself.
I worked for a guy who said it was imperative to dope, tape, then dope. I could still tighten his fittings up a few more turns with channel locks alone. No wonder he used that method.
 

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