Shower Valve - American Standard

I got a american standard Cadet 1674 model and am going crazy. The first one I got, the box said shower valve, but the valve in the box is set up for a shower outlet on top and tub on bottom. I took it back and home depot guy said it was packaged wrong. I went to another store bc they were out of stock and got another box, the pic on the box shows its for a shower- hot/cold inlet with one outlet for the shower like I want. Get it home and it too has the bottom tub outlet. Do you just plug that port up and forget about it??

Yes. Make sure you cap/plug the proper outlet, for tub. Some manufacturers will say 'shower only' because the trim is included with the valve as a complete kit, yet does not have the spout for the tub in the box.
If it says 'tub and shower' it will include the spout.

thanks, i figured as much but never messed with one to be sure. Thanks

Don't use any pipe when capping off that bottom outlet. Some plumbers like to put a foot or so of pipe in that outlet (even though it's being capped) so they have something to secure the valve with. The only problem is, that water will never get rinsed out and can actually grow harmful bacteria inside. If the bottom port is threaded, best just to cap or plug it with brass.

I would think that by design the water in a short piece would be flushed around the inside of the shower valve and mixed with the incoming water and replenished. The entire shower valve body as well as the 'tub' outlet is all filled at the same time since there is no integral diverter that separates the tub feature from the shower feature. Similar, but not the same as, the effect created by a hydrostatic test for leaks on a water distribution system. The water is just as old as the other water standing in the pipes.
As soon as there is a point of release (i.e. the shower head) the water in the shower valve as well as the stub is evacuated.
I could only see a potential of standing water allowing bacterial growth if the pipe were several feet long and capped, but even then it would be a hard sell.
I prefer a cap anyways. Just sayin'.

BTW, I do understand the reasons of length limitations on "dead-ending" water distribution pipes and the risks, but I think that sometimes the circumstances that create the hazard are exaggerated and misinterpreted. I am always a proponent of safety, sometimes to an extreme. But on an active shower valve and a short piece...not what most would consider a 'dead-end' pipe.

As soon as there is a point of release (i.e. the shower head) the water in the shower valve as well as the stub is evacuated.
I could only see a potential of standing water allowing bacterial growth if the pipe were several feet long and capped, but even then it would be a hard sell.

Click to expand...

If the stub is more than a few inches long, the water does not get flushed out. It remains stagnant. On a shower valve, the only point of exit is the shower head. When the valve is turned off, water remains trapped in the stub. In Seattle, if you leave a stub more than 4" long on the bottom of the shower valve, the health dept. inspector will make you change it. If you have ever cut stub outs off to put on angle stops at a sink you'd see the water inside those stub outs is always filthy. It's the same idea.

i agree with cad, in my area we can have a dead end up to two feet long and not have to worrie about growing anything because you will get circulation at that lenght.

My intent is not to create controversy, joesplumbing. I apologize if it came across as a correction to what is required in your area or an unsafe practice being promoted to the public.
I just wanted the post to reflect that an existing situation with a short piece or by installing one out of necessity or freedom-of-design, isn't a call for removal of the piece and unnecessary time/money. Especially from a DIYers perspective, since most have no understanding of what codes are or why we have them.
I agree with you that capping with a brass ips or sweat plug is best.

I just capped it off.......now to cement board it in.

Nice looking work.

Are you going to have access to those ball valves when you are done? You should be able to inspect and service them.

thanks, first time working with copper, its pretty easy. Yes the valves can be reached from the back, there is a closet behind and there is a vent cover from the previous owner or maybe when the house was built but can be removed if needed.

kinda off the subject but about the short piece of pipe and bacteria growth. I can't speak to the bacteria, but last week I removed some 5" nipples that were capped at a tee and they were completely full of whitish brown gunk. It was on a galvy line but the galvy pipe was pristine inside.