Rough in design. Do you approve?

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Bogucki

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Tell me what you think. Double vanity being added on this wall. My main concern is the vent pipe distance. It snakes quite a bit.

Rough in plumbing 1.JPG
 
Looks OK to me. What you should do is add a clean out just below or above the DBL fitting. If you try to sanke the line from the sink arms the snake will just run past the DBL fitting with out being able to snake the lower section of the line.

John
 
I see. This house is pier and beam so can I add the cleanout under the floor where it slopes toward the main drain? This way I don't have to create an access panel and move the vanity if I need to snake it?? Also, the drain lines from the sink to the double fitting, should they be sloped .25" per foot? I keep seeing examples online and some appear to be level, with no slope. The old drain from the sink that I am tearing out, opposite wall, doesn't have a slope on it. It's flat and tees into the vent pipe that is shared with the toilet. ?? What do you say?
 
1/4 " per foot if the pipe is up to 3" 1/8 per foot on 4" minimum grade.
 
Thanks. One last question. Would you use copper or PEX for the supply lines? I've read alot about the two but everything seems to be based on personal opinion. I've never sweated pipes before but I'm confident I can become proficient with some scrap pieces and a little practice. Is it worth the time and money to put in copper?
 
nope, copper is nice for mechanical rooms and areas that may be seen, but for most domestic perposes sees little benafit Imo.
 
Hi I'm Brian. Everything looks ok to me. I would do it different though. The one thing that I don't think u need is a clean out. If u have your double Ty going the right direction u won't have a .problem snaking it ever. You can also go as minimal as 1/16 of an inch on your pitch for vent if needed. It's a vent not a drain. I would use pex if your not so sure on the sodering. Another thing is reduce to 1 1/2 for the drain and venting. 2 inch is not needed, easier to work with. Good luck! Any questions ask.
 
Hi I'm Brian. Everything looks ok to me. I would do it different though. The one thing that I don't think u need is a clean out. If u have your double Ty going the right direction u won't have a .problem snaking it ever. You can also go as minimal as 1/16 of an inch on your pitch for vent if needed. It's a vent not a drain. I would use pex if your not so sure on the sodering. Another thing is reduce to 1 1/2 for the drain and venting. 2 inch is not needed, easier to work with. Good luck! Any questions ask.

If you have a stoppage below the DBL TY there is no way to get the snake to go down the line. When running the snake through one waste arm it will go past the drop and into the other waste arm.

John
 
Very well said John. I'm sure this project has been completed by now, and I hope you installed the clean out tee. 1 1/2" piping is all that's required for the trap arm, however a 2" minimum size is needed for the fixture drain. That means we need a 2" clean out. Even if you used a Drop head or were able to snake downstream of the double fixture tee, you wouldn't be able to fit a full size snake head down the line. Anytime you snake a line, the objective isn't to just clear the line, but to open it back to full inside diameter again. A wall clean out would be better than a floor clean out simply for cosmetic reasons and trim options. Wall clean outs don't have to be traffic rated! Lol
 
I have had an issue with the snake shooting past the dbl fixture cross. I recommend putting the clean out under the cross fitting. Only for accessibility. There is no benefit to putting it above. It just becomes more difficult to deal with up high under the cabinet. Use copper stub outs for the water. Wirsbo in the wall.
 
Sounds like you know your ****. I agree. The only possible benefit of having a clean out above the double fixture tee would be so you don't make a mess inside the cabinet once you pull the plug or screw holding the clean out cover.

And no wirsbo exposed ever! Lol
 

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