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MrBreakit

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Apr 25, 2011
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Erie, PA
Okay. Live in Pa. Have a dug well. 18ft deep. A few days ago, the top portion of ground collapsed around the top casement and allowed mud into the well (Due to spring thaw and 5 days of constand pouring rain). Due to that, the foot valve was stuck in about 8 inches of mud and gravel. Had no water pressure. Brother came over with the backhoe and we dug it up last friday. Come to find out, I had a small hole in the water line about 8 ft from the well going to the house backdraining water around the well which is why it collapsed. So replaced the water line, replaced the pump, replaced foot valve. Everything from the pump to the well is brand new. Primed the pump yesterday and had great pressure for about 5 hours. Was taking a shower last night and slowy the pressure went from good to just a trickle. Checked all other faucets and water points, no pressure. Went to the pump, it's sitting at 40psi (30/50 Pressure Switch), Pressure at the pressure tank is the same (40psi). Pressure tank seems to be half full of water as well. So turned the pump off, it's full of water. Pressure in tank seems okay? Now I have no idea where to check from here? Also have an inline whole house filter after pressure tank. New filter as of saturday. Where to turn? Not sure if my pressure tank has a bladder or not. Has a date code of 1994 (it's a well-trol 30 gallon). Thanks in advance.
 
Get rid of that filter. They are useless. I'm sure you have plugged it up after what your dug well has been through. Once removed, run all cold water faucets full blast until the water clears.
 
Filter didn't look to be clogged. But i put it on bypass and instantly restored pressure. Thanks. I didn't think it would clog in a matter of 4 or 5 hours. Thanks.
 
Big problem aye. Have you tried calling or hiring a professional? I think that if you will not hire a plumber, your present problem will create another problem, you know what im saying.
 
Big problem aye. Have you tried calling or hiring a professional? I think that if you will not hire a plumber, your present problem will create another problem, you know what im saying.

The problem with those filters is that some Professionals put them in too.
 
You might find that the outlet fans in your pump impeller are full of dirt / mud . Leave the filter off . They clog too quickly
 
Maybe I'm reading into too far, but why would you get rid of the filter? Just change the cartridge. We install whole house filters a lot. It keeps a ton of crap from fouling fixtures. It's easier to change one filter than 6 aerators, 3 shower heads, wash machine screens and emptying water heater of sediment.
 
Maybe I'm reading into too far, but why would you get rid of the filter? Just change the cartridge. We install whole house filters a lot. It keeps a ton of crap from fouling fixtures. It's easier to change one filter than 6 aerators, 3 shower heads, wash machine screens and emptying water heater of sediment.]
He said it plugged up in 4 hours. He needs to pump the well off until it clears. An inline (whole house filter) is nothing more than a one faucet filter with a very deceiving name. They should be outlawed in my opinion.
 
He said it plugged up in 4 hours. He needs to pump the well off until it clears. An inline (whole house filter) is nothing more than a one faucet filter with a very deceiving name. They should be outlawed in my opinion.

!!! DO NOT MISINTERPRET THIS POST PLEASE !!!

- I am a cheap Harry Homeowner type trying to live somewhat healthy. I do not argue with pros.

After servicing a well and/or components, shouldn't the system be flushed while by-passing the filter element(s)? After the flush, bring the filters back into the system. A pressure reading valve before and after water treatment elements will quickly identify a flow restriction.

I personally do not like the idea of drinking sediment/silt. It is present in municipal water also. Just look at what it does to a water heater.

Comments?
 
Things must be different in Florida. We install a lot of 4.5"x20" 5 micron whole house filters. They are more than "one faucet" filters. Also, we don't run hosebibs on filtered water. If his well needs to be run off, do through a hosebib, not the fixtures.

Rather interesting to hear how different products/methods are around the country.
 
I personally do not like the idea of drinking sediment/silt. It is present in municipal water also. Just look at what it does to a water heater.
Sediment is removed in the city water I'm familiar with. It's the hardness that coats the workings of your water heater, not sediment. I'm not saying there is nothing in your water, I'm saying there is nothing in your water that an inline filter can trap that is in the least harmful to you except possibly Giardia lamblia. And I seriously doubt you will find that in well or city water.

We install a lot of 4.5"x20" 5 micron whole house filters
At least you install a 20" filter not a 10 inch one. That is an improvement, but I still don't see the need for one. What is it your trying to remove with these filters?
 
Sediment is removed in the city water I'm familiar with. It's the hardness that coats the workings of your water heater, not sediment. I'm not saying there is nothing in your water, I'm saying there is nothing in your water that an inline filter can trap...

Not questioning you or your knowledge/experience, but here in MD, sediment(s) is a very real problem. In fact,they schedule periodic mains flushing which will generate Bundy Tea for days afterwards.

My last water heater (gas) was heavy with sediments and would knock and gurgle while actually heating. The thing weighed a ton when it was time to replace it.

- Water Heater Sediment, What Is It and What Should You Do About It?
 
If you want to call it sediment that's fine, but it has to come from somewhere. Most of what is in your water is dissolved in the water. It's not in a solid form. When it's heated it can coat the inside of your heater. Minerals don't have to be heated to coat pipes, heating just speeds up the process. This mineral can flake off and settle to the bottom of a heater and if not drained off occasionally can become a problem.

If you truly think you have sediment, look into where your water comes from. More than likely it will have hardness and not too much of anything else.
 
I have a house in MD as well as WV at this point. I may be confusing you with my current well posts.

Municipal water here is drawn directly from the Potomac before treatment. During low river level periods, sediment(s) are much heavier and combined with an aged piping system, has at times extremely elevated sediments. It also has elevated calcium content which also fouls fixtures. We only drink BRITA filtered water as the municipal water has heavy chlorination in addition.

The ground water in FL must be very clean. We Yankees do not have that luxury... :D

Again, THANX for your time and expertise. It is much appreciated.

-ROCKVILLE CITY WATER REPORT-
 
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Wow, I remember when the Potomac used to be green and gave off a rather bright glow after dark. I guess they cleaned it up a bit. I don't know how they filter your water, but the course I took shows it being soaked through sand beds and aloe is used to floculate solids so they can be trapped in these beds. If done right, there should be no sediments. There should also not be more than about 7 grains hardness. That's what most lakes and streams are in the areas I'm familiar with.
 

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