tim's shower project

[seatofpantstile]

The specs don't say shyte about it...... It's a Elizabethan Classic ECETS12
Thx

[johnjh2o]

That is a faucet for a legged tub. And having a mixing valve on you tank in no way allows you to use that faucet as a shower valve. In my opinion there is no way I would ever install that valve on a shower or even give advice as to how to do it.

John

[LiQuId]

Agreed. the valve is not suited for the application .

[seatofpantstile]

Here's the code in question
"Some common options for compliance with the requirements of Article 7.6.5.1.
include:
• Installation of pressure-balanced or thermostatic-mixing shower valves for
shower heads and an anti-scald device at each hot water faucet, or
• Installation of an anti-scald mixing valve at the outlet of the water heater to
lower the temperature to 490C, or
• Installation of a water heater with an integral anti-scald device."

So I get that you don't quite like this faucet John but I humbly think your wrong on it being for a tub. Here's the link to their site.
Belle Foret Exposed Tub and Shower Faucet ECETS12CP Chrome

So it might not be the best suited but it's what I got. Anyone else got some hot tips on how to put it up?

Thx.

[johnjh2o]

I was referring to US codes your quoting Canadian. Just my opinion but if tempering valves are allowed at the heater then way not just lower the temperature setting on the heater.

John

[Mr_David]

You're going to want to use a fitting you can secure inside the wall. Tried to find a picture of a hyco fitting. But I did find some listed as Hy-Ear fittings. these are attached to a starp that will hold the fitting so you can install a nipple from the outside of the wall. Typically used to hold tub spout/shower arm fittings. Google images of Hy Ear brass fittings

But this back ear fitting will probably be a better choice. Less likely to break the tabs off. In your application the hy ear tabs have a higher potential of failure and can break off

[Mr_David]

I originally thought you were going to replace the valve on the fiberglass tub. I just realized you are installing a complete new shower back to back with the exiting tub/shwr unit.

the trouble you may have is the finished wall to stud. You need to be pretty accurate as to how thick the finished wall is going to be. Nipples come in 1/2" increments. Then set the back-ear fittings securely to wood, making sure they are straight and square. I would prefab the valve in place then remove it and install some long sacrificial nipples while installing finished wall.

[LiQuId]

Originally Posted by johnjh2o

I was referring to US codes your quoting Canadian. Just my opinion but if tempering valves are allowed at the heater then way not just lower the temperature setting on the heater.

John

The reasoning is this.

140 'F = 60' C ( sorry for conversion I tend to think in C for some things )
maximum allowablle temperature at a point of use is 49 ' C ( 120 f )

but the temperature in the hot water tank must be at least 140 to inhibit the formation of leigonella bacteria

- 70 to 80 °C (158 to 176 °F): Disinfection range
- At 66 °C (151 °F): Legionellae die within 2 minutes
- At 60 °C (140 °F): They die within 32 minutes
- At 55 °C (131 °F): They die within 5 to 6 hours
- Above 50 °C (122 °F): They can survive but do not multiply
-35 to 46 °C (95 to 115 °F): Ideal growth range
-20 to 50 °C (68 to 122 °F): Growth range
- Below 20 °C (68 °F): They can survive but are dormant


^ chopped that list off of wiki..

So it is basically another safety issue.

[seatofpantstile]

So this is what I ended up doing prior to reading the last bit of advice.

Is this good or should I redo it. I've closed in the wall but could remove the backer board as I haven't sealed it yet.

Thx

[Mr_David]

Sorry I didn't get back to you I'm a little under the weather. the tabs on the fitting I showed you hold it from turning. You risk twisting the pipe or even breaking a solder joint because you can't hold the fitting to assemble or disassemble


you can use this 1/2" pipe hanger