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Old 02-01-2012, 02:59 PM   #1
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Default Shower drain leaking

I have (what I believe is) a Sioux Chief 827-2B no caulk brass drain. It was in the home when I bought it 6 years ago. Recently I discovered a small leak coming out of the drain. It appears that water is getting underneath the outer lip and going through a small leak in the sealing washer.

I am trying to get the drain apart, but I cannot get the internal compression nut to move at all. I am also not sure what I can use to loosen the outer lock nut as well. I've got a small hole in the ceiling on the 1st floor below the drain where I cleared out the damp drywall.

I'm very much a novice at all of this, but from what I have read the likely solution is to replace the sealing washer (gasket) and re-seal the outer lip of the drain to the shower bed. I just need some help getting there. Any advice on tools or techniques would be greatly appreciated.

Here's a link to the model I believe I have:
http://www.siouxchief.com/Drainage/ResidentialDrainage/ShowerDrain/No-Caulk-Shower-Module-Drain.RW2II
http://www.siouxchief.com/Resource_/ProductMedia/303/827%20Installation%20Instructions.pdf

I've also attached some photos. The white paste-like stuff appears to be caulk that never cured or has just broken down. I've been scooping that stuff out since I opened the drain up.

  
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:07 PM   #2
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Considering that the drain body and compression nut are brass, they have likely corroded together.

Since you already have a hole cut in the ceiling below, cut it out large enough to work through. Remove the large nut on the bottom that secures the drain to the shower, then cut the PVC pipe several inches below the drain. Install a new drain using plumber's putty between the lip of the drain and the shower, tighten, let set for several minutes, retighten. Then reattach the PVC pipe using a coupling.

I personally have learned to dislike the brass bodied drains. I have seen them corrode and break completely free of the shower. I would use a PVC body drain with a glue in connection.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:27 PM   #3
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^ agree, brass drain bodys
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:02 AM   #4
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What would be the best way to get the outer lock nut off?
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:11 AM   #5
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You could Try some anti Seize spray, but i would wager the easyest way would be to cut it off.
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Old 02-03-2012, 04:38 AM   #6
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Cutting does sound easier. Would a dremel work well or is there something that would work better to cut the ring without hitting the shower body?
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:00 AM   #7
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hacksaw blade. tedious, but effective.
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Old 02-03-2012, 06:30 PM   #8
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And less chance of error I'm sure. Would I want to cut up from the bottom of the ring on each side? My main objective is to avoid hitting the shower base.
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:26 PM   #9
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Get a mini hacksaw, new ones work good IF you have the availablle space ... But also bring a few hacksaw blades. Wear a glove, tape em where you hold, get a holder Etc..

Start with a 24 Tpi, or even a 32 Tpi blade and cut kinda diagonal across the nut Creating a score that you can now follow with a more aggresive blade like an 18 tpi ( I should not that you could use the same blade for the entire process, I have free access to all these blades so sometimes use a few ) Basically thats it, When you get through the nut yoiu can likely pry it free from the rest with a screwdriver, if its really seized then repeat the procedure in a few places. Once the nut is free the entire works should be able to be freed.

Alternately ( but more potential danger to the base ) Would be to cut right against the shower base, severing the whole works in 2 peices. you must be very sure of your hand for this.
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:11 PM   #10
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Hey guys just wanted to follow up. Cut out the old drain and installed the new one over the weekend and all looks good! I tried using a drain wrench tool I found at Lowes to get the locking ring off, but to no avail. Used a small open ended hacksaw to cut the ring off, then began to pry parts of it off of the threads. Eventually was able to use a screwdriver and a few taps of a hammer on one of the little nubs around the locking ring to get it to move.

Cut off the pipe below the drain and removed the old drain body. Attached a coupler and a new piece of pipe (cut to length), then installed the new drain. Gave a little extra time for the silicone to cure and tested it out. No water on the floor below and no slow leaks coming out of the drain, looks to be watertight!

Thank you phishfood and LiQuId for all of your advice on this. You both were very helpful and saved me a lot of time and money. Plus I got some good knowledge out of it too!

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