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02-25-2010, 01:34 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 12
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Hi,
OK, now cleaning the tank on the inside with some paper towels, the existing black rubber washers were just dissolving in water almost - a swirl of black. I'm not sure if I should replace them.
Should I clean out the tank with something before I put the new valve in?
Thanks,
Dan
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02-25-2010, 03:06 AM
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#12
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,202
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What you are seeing is quite normal. There are replacement seals available, but you will have to separate the tank from the toilet. If you want it to last for several more years, then do it. If you just want to leave it alone, it will be fine. Get a bucket of water, open the flapper, and rinse it until clean.
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02-27-2010, 01:42 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 12
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Hi all,
OK I got 9" braided hose, about 1" longer than the PEX I had originally, but now I see why it was PEX. It was custom cut to fit a particular length. The 9" braided hose will fit but only if it is "S"-curved unnaturally. Should I still go with the braided hose? It's the best I could find at the big home improvement store. I could try some other kind of store that would have more selection?
Thanks,
Dan
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02-27-2010, 02:46 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 12
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OK, for better or for worse, I reused the old PEX toilet connector.
The next step in the instructions says to install the fill valve so that the "C.L." mark is at least 1" above the rim of the overflow tube (above the flush valve). I read that this is to prevent toilet water from getting back into the main fresh water pipe.
This unfortunately means that the top of the fill valve is too high for the toilet lid by about 1 cm.
I could trim down the overflow tube (how?) so that the fill valve can sit lower and fit inside the tank, but that would mean that the water level (which I read has to be 1" below the overflow tube) would be lower than the engraved "water level" arrow mark on the inside wall of the tank.
Which way should I go? Trim the overflow tube and lower the water in the tank, or lower the fill valve but the CL mark would be very close to the level of the rim of the overflow tube?
Thanks,
Dan
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02-27-2010, 03:49 AM
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#16
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,202
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Regarding the supply line, I usually prefer one that is 6-8" longer that the straight line measurement, and put a loop in it for flexation. They always seem to adjust better with an added loop.
As far as the height, those fill valves are adjustable. Just grap the top, while holding the bottom, and it will screw in or out. You need to adjust it about the same height as the old one. This way, they will not stick out the top of the lid.
The mark inside the tank is designed to allow for the best possible flush, with the least amount of water. Since you are replacing the "guts" that line is for a close reference only. Just make sure the water stops about 1/2" from the overflow tube.
Hang in there, you're almost done. Once you see how easy it is to install, you can help your neighbors, family and friends!
Last edited by havasu; 02-27-2010 at 03:54 AM.
Reason: added info.
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02-27-2010, 05:01 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 12
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Hi all,
OK, done (including flapper - attached it to existing hooks on overflow tube, and not using the ring included with the flapper). It seems great, but I have 2 questions.
1. The water level adjustment knob on the fill valve - it says it can be used to change the water level, but it seems fine - about 1" below the rim of the overflow tube. Just to see, I turn it, and it is hard to turn and doesn't seem to do anything. Is it supposed to be in a threaded groove to screw up and down?
2. The amount of resting water in the toilet below where one sits is low. I know that's good conservation but I kind of like a little more water. Is there a way to moderate that?
Thanks,
Dan
Last edited by bridgeboy; 02-27-2010 at 05:02 AM.
Reason: added information
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02-27-2010, 07:06 AM
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#18
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,202
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I believe you have the fill valve too low for your toilet. I wouldn't recommend turning the fill valve while it is installed as there is a chance of cracking the porcelain. Disconnect the supply line, remove the base nut, and after removing it, twist the body of the valve until it expands. You will hear a click as it expands. The vertical tube has a stainless steel pincher which allows adjustment, but from the picture, it appears to already be at the maximum heighth. It's easy to drop the water level with this adjustment pincher, but if it is at its maximum level, your only choice is to adjust the entire tube.
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