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#1 | ||
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 12
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 156
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Start by replacing the ballcock and flapper.
Buy a Fluidmaster Fill Valve from Lowe's and grap a flapper while you're there. Follow the directions on the box. It's fairly simple. Good Luck! |
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#3 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 12
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Wow, thanks!
So it's this: Fluidmaster | Products | Fill Valves - Anti-Siphon Fill Valve (400A) and any old flapper like: Fluidmaster | Products| Flush - Bull's Eye Flapper (503) ? Thanks, Dan P.S. Wow! |
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#4 | |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Wildomar, CA
Posts: 746
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Quote:
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#5 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 12
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Hi,
OK, and is there a difference in quality between the cheap flapper type I already have (rubber flap) and the more heavy-duty looking one like: Fluidmaster | Products| Flush - Bull's Eye Super Flapper (501) ? Thanks, Dan |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 156
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I've never used those "fancy" flappers before. That doesn't necessarily mean anything.
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 182
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The Fluidmaster 400 fill-valves are great. Save the instructions since they also have info for future needs such as if there is a problem and it needs flushed out. Fancy, does not mean it will work any better than plain and simple.
__________________
If you have never made a mistake, you probably haven't done much. |
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#8 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 12
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Hi all,
I got the new Fluidmaster 400A fill valve and a flapper as advised, and my first adventure is the supply line. It is PEX, and I don't know which of the 4 categories the instructions mention it might be: 1. metal/copper flared tubing (use new cone washer, new coupling nut) 2. metal flanged tubing (reuse existing washer and coupling nut) 3. metal spiral tubing (use existing cone washer but new coupline nut) 4. vinyl/braided connector (captive cone washers already included) On my actual one (see photos), the nut can slide up and down when not attached, but can't be removed, since the cone type thing at the top seems part of the whole line. So I guess it's just 4 - reuse the existing line. But I could get the nut off if I unscrewed the line from the supply water metal fixture where the cut-off valve is. Should I try to do that and put in the new one or is the captive cone meant to stay with that nut? Thanks, Dan |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 406
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Just reuse the supply line with cone that is there. Easy pleasy.
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#10 |
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On permanent vacation....
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: So. Cal & Lake Havasu
Posts: 821
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As Phishfood said, just use what you have as the cheapest possible solution. In my opinion, that supply line looks quite a few years old, and is going to be your weak link. For a few dollars, I would upgrade to flexible stainless steel. This plastic pipe has a short life expectancy, and can cause thousands of dollars in damage if it bursts. At Lake Havasu, the repair cost for a burst supply line averages $45,000 - $75,000 in the area where I have my summer home. Thank God for insurance!
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