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Old 11-10-2010, 12:07 AM   #1
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Default Tank to bowl leak with 10 yr old Sterling toilet

I first noticed the leak because the toilet was phantom filling. We replaced the flapper twice (with a universal korky flapper and then with the exact same kind as the one we replaced). When that didn't work, we replaced the fill and flush valves using the Fluidmaster Complete Toilet Tank Repair Kit from Lowe's. The big red tank to bowl gasket that came with the kit did not seem to fit, so we tracked down the gasket that was on the tank previously ([http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/kohler-gasket-51487.jpg]). Water still leaks into the bowl (not onto the floor). I've had many people tell me it's the flapper but it can't be. When I disconnect the water, the tank empties completely-not just to the level of the flapper. There are no visible cracks and no moisture accumulates anywhere on the outside of the tank. Any suggestions?

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Old 11-10-2010, 12:51 AM   #2
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Replace the flush valve. Could be cracked.
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 09:50 AM   #3
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As you can see above, we replaced everything already.
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Old 11-10-2010, 01:16 PM   #4
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Opps! my reading skills are worse than my writing skills.
I would guess that the seal on the new flush valve leaks.

If possible take the tank off and set it on some wood blocks.
Fill the tank and look at the bottom with a mirror. you can add some dye /food color to make it easier to see.
I use a little teflon paste on the neoprene seal when it happens or just tigten the nut a little more.
Make sure the hole in tank is not oversized for the seal
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Old 11-10-2010, 02:59 PM   #5
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I'm wondering what would happen if you were to hold pressure on the flapper, making sure of a good seal. Will you still have leakage into your bowl? If not, it has to be a bad flapper assembly.
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:14 PM   #6
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How common is it to have leakage between these two parts?

Can you find replacement seals/bolts at your local home store?

What about the cushion washer between them?


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Old 11-12-2010, 01:10 PM   #7
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To PS: It is not really common to have this type of leak. Good part is that the bolts and gaskets can be found at most Home Centers.
Please start a new thread for your questions. If not, your question can get lost and the original poster has to sort through answers for the ones concerning their question. Thanks.
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:49 PM   #8
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Check the porcelain in the area where the the flush valve sits. It is uncommon, but a manufacturing flaw in that area can lead to a small chip or crack over time which prevents the flush valve from seating properly.
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Old 08-10-2011, 08:44 PM   #9
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Default Common Sterling problem

Folks, this is a common Sterling problem. There is a warning label inside the tank that indicates "use of in-tank cleaning tablets may damage the seals". This is true. In-tank chlorinating tablets will erode the tank-bowl seal and cause leakage around the flapper valve and into the bowl. The flapper is not affected - only the tank-to-base seal. The only way to fix it is to replace the tank-to-bowl seal, but it is a special three-point gasket that covers both the main port from the bowl to tank, and both mounting bolts. If you replace the tank seal with a universal single round gasket, the tank will rock and the base will be at risk for damage from the tank mounting bolts and nuts banging into it.
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Old 12-31-2011, 11:11 PM   #10
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Default Tank to bowl leak with 10 yr old Sterling toilet

I had the same problem and read the responses in this thread with great interest. I had replaced the flush valve and all associated gaskets with the recommended replacement parts. I still had the same seepage from the tank to the bowl no matter what I did - even applying silicone grease, etc. as suggested in the thread. I finally decided that the problem could be that the hole in the tank was just too large for the standard gaskets to bridge, so I used a fat, squishy tank-to-bowl washer in place of the standard flush valve rubber washer. Problem solved. I hope that this helps someone with the same intolerance for nagging problems that I have. My next step involved black powder, with a safe stand-off distance, of course.

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