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07-10-2012, 03:08 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
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Shower into toilet drain
Hello,
This my first post so hi all! For starters I have no plumbing experience.
My question involves using a toilet drain for a shower drain on a concrete floor.
I really have no other place to put a shower in this building and need to figure out a way I can safely do this. I suppose I will have to bust up the concrete around the toilet drain, put in traps, and then recement around the the shower drain I have created? Any help is much appreciated. Also, the shower will be completely tiled to the floor.
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07-10-2012, 11:41 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Melbourne, Florida
Posts: 1,892
Liked 117 Times on 107 Posts Likes Given: 69
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It's a little more involved then that. If it's going to have a tiled floor then you need to install a shower pan. If you don't know what a shower pan is then I suggest you call a plumbing contractor.
John
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07-10-2012, 12:50 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
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I understand the shower pan, membrane, etc....my question is only regarding the shower drain into a toilet drain....as of now anyway. I am basically wondering how I should go about adding a trap below grade. The floor is tiled over concrete. I suppose I will have to cut all the way through the concrete, plumb down to 2", add a P trap and then re-cement the hole I've made. Also, as far as I'm aware, if if I was to re-cement all my piping would have to be cast iron?
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07-12-2012, 10:13 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
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Bump. Help? Anyone?
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07-13-2012, 04:54 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: , Alberta
Posts: 833
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you would need a vent on the line to properly be installed and sufficiant to vent the Wc. and shower. and your pipe wouldnt need to be cast iron. I suspect that you would be better off hiring a contractor.
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10-15-2012, 06:21 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4
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All drain lines go to the same place. Go ahead and tap into the toilet just like you've said. As another poster suggested, make sure you have proper venting in the new line--you can use a Studor vent for this, installed in the walls if needed. Make sure you get the proper glue for your PVC connections, and make sure you follow the directions EXACTLY for gluing so you don't have any leaks. Other than that, go for it. I've saved thousands over the last few years by doing things myself--even things that seemed formidable at first. You learn by doing, and by getting yourself into and out of trouble. Ask people at your nearest big-box home improvement store for help--they can tell you a lot, and most of the time it's right.
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10-16-2012, 12:39 AM
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#7
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 3,337
Liked 107 Times on 92 Posts Likes Given: 239
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Do NOT put a studor vent/ air admittance valve inside of a wall, unless you also install an access panel.
Just my personal professional opinion, but I shy away from AAV's whenever possible. They are a check valve, so they can't relieve positive pressure in the plumbing system, only negative pressure. Also, they are a mechanical device, which means that they can and do fail.
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10-16-2012, 01:57 AM
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#8
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:0)
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tucson, Az
Posts: 76
Liked 21 Times on 21 Posts Likes Given: 5
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Are you going to eliminate the toilet or keep it?
__________________
-Daniel
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11-11-2012, 07:50 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6
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If you can tie into the lav drain somehow ( you can use plastic) then you can say **** the vent as long as its 2" pipe your tying in to
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11-11-2012, 07:51 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6
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but bottom line is you are jackhammering
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