Bad PVC flange.

[MinConst]

I run into this on occasion.
Pull a toilet and find the flange is cracked, broken or what have you. Being in Florida I'm on slabs and digging out concrete to replace a broken PVC flange is not my idea of fun.
Isn't there a tool that will bore out the flange? If there is is it very expensive and how hard is it to use. I envision blowing out the side of the pipe.
Thanks
Min
Part 2,
I also do tile work. What is the best way to extent a flange to accommodate the thickness of the tile? I'm not hot on using two wax rings. I don't think that is a good idea.
Thanks again.

[schvilktus]

Pasco makes a tool called a "Ram-Bit" that comes in different sizes that you can use to bore out the hub of plastic fittings so you can reuse them. There are other variations of the same tool but I think the Pasco one is the most common. To raise the flange, there are simple PVC rings about 1/4" thick that you just silicone and screw on top of the existing flange; Sioux Chief makes one of those.

[majakdragon]

On concrete, I have used Super Rings. They are a metal ring that is installed over the existing broken flange. To raise the level of a flange, I use Flange Extenders. They come in different thicknesses to make up the amount you need. They must be secured over the old flange and silicone placed between each extender used.

[phishfood]

I have ran into this quite a few times, and I can usually have a new flange installed within 10 or 15 minutes. Here is what I do.

Using a reciprocating saw, cut through the flange, both the wall inside the pipe and the flat above the concrete, about 3/4" apart. Try not to cut into the pipe itself as best you can. Break this 3/4" section out, using a thin blade flat screwdriver. The top section will come off easily, but the wall section will usually require some careful "chiseling" to remove. Then use the thin screwdriver and drive it between the ID of the pipe and the OD of the flange. This can require some finesse. Once you start to get some seperation between the two, often a sharp rap on the outer edge of the flange will further the seperation. Carry this around the flange, hitting the outside of the flange, or breaking the top off and driving the screwdriver in between, until the entire glue joint is seperated. Then glue a new flange in place, being sure to be very liberal with the primer.

OH, and DO wear safety glasses when doing this. Old plastic shatters and flies everywhere, trust me.

[MinConst]

Originally Posted by phishfood

I have ran into this quite a few times, and I can usually have a new flange installed within 10 or 15 minutes. Here is what I do.

Using a reciprocating saw, cut through the flange, both the wall inside the pipe and the flat above the concrete, about 3/4" apart. Try not to cut into the pipe itself as best you can. Break this 3/4" section out, using a thin blade flat screwdriver. The top section will come off easily, but the wall section will usually require some careful "chiseling" to remove. Then use the thin screwdriver and drive it between the ID of the pipe and the OD of the flange. This can require some finesse. Once you start to get some seperation between the two, often a sharp rap on the outer edge of the flange will further the seperation. Carry this aroud the flange, hitting the outside of the flange, or breaking the top off and driving the screwdriver in between, until the entire glue joint is seperated. Then glue a new flange in place, being sure to be very liberal with the primer.

OH, and DO wear safety glasses when doing this. Old plastic shatters and flies everywhere, trust me.

I wondered if this was possible. Never had the nerve to try it in case the pipe broke. But the more I do work in concrete the less I am leery of digging it up when the need arises. I will give this a try next time I run into this.
Thanks
Min

[phishfood]

Spring Hill? I am in the Deland area.

[MinConst]

So hows the work going over that way?