Cutting Plastic Pipe

[Sebastian_Thomas]

Subject to the type of project which needs to be accomplished and the site of the job, cut off saws make plenty of sense. If the workspace is open enough, you may benefit from employing a stationary cut off saw.

[AllAces777]

When we were doing massive amounts of residential tract homes and had a ton of pipe to install, I would always use the Reed quick cutters. They fit in a tool pouch and could cut plastic pipe in 2-3 turns, nice and quick!

[johnjh2o]

On new work we use a chop saw. It's just a standard miter saw with a fine tooth carbide blade install backwards in the saw. Makes a clean square cut with no burs. It's also a lot cheaper then the Ridgid chop saw.

John

[rosky]

Originally Posted by johnjh2o

On new work we use a chop saw. It's just a standard miter saw with a fine tooth carbide blade install backwards in the saw. Makes a clean square cut with no burs. It's also a lot cheaper then the Ridgid chop saw.

John

Thanks for that tip. I'm learning as I go, but this weekend I had to install some pvc for a new project at my house, and I remembered reading this post. I flipped the blade on my chop saw (that we'd been using to do my buddy's floor), and was making straight cuts on the 3" pipe thus making me feel a whole lot better about things rather than the jagged cuts I was getting from my sawzall.
I learn something everytime I come here. Thanks to all of you!
Ross

[LiQuId]

to the Op: 6" pipe cutters? anytime i've used 6" or larger i;ve used a gang saw ( gas powered chopsaw ) I too think youve got something out of wack here.

thouge there are big enough cutters to do the job of 6" its not worth the time invested.

I use a cutting wheel for finish work inside homes where i dont want the mess of saw shavings, but like the others on here I often cut pipe with a hacksaw, thats for no BS plumbers IMO

... I also am pretty fond of my M-18 milwuakee haczall.

To cydewater: I had the m-12 for a while, I found that the cuts were often not straight, and that like you mnentioned it would break smaller pieces. It worked okay for abs 1 1/2 but I cannot justify the tool as it goes through batteries and cuts fairly poorly even with a sharp blade, so it was sold.

M-12 impact driver is however the very best way ( again IMO ) to place a screw or secure an MJ and for 100 bucks comes woth the perfect drill to be an electric fitting brush.

[LiQuId]

Originally Posted by johnjh2o

On new work we use a chop saw. It's just a standard miter saw with a fine tooth carbide blade install backwards in the saw. Makes a clean square cut with no burs. It's also a lot cheaper then the Ridgid chop saw.

John

I will be interested to try this out, thanks for the idea.

[Nathan901]

After some practice, a sawzall with a good blade is perfect for quick cuts on anything under 4". Obviously if you on a new construction job or a big rough in, a chop saw is pratical, But i still prefer my sawzall.

[Matt30]

I do undergrounds to finish work with my hacksaw with a 32 tooth blade. Ive been searching for an alternative though, i dont really want to carry a chopsaw around to hook up a sink.

[domsmith]

Mostly I preffered hacksaw as a pipie cutting tool. Even the expert uses one when they need to make more detailed cuts or simple adjustments.

[LiQuId]

Originally Posted by Matt30

I do undergrounds to finish work with my hacksaw with a 32 tooth blade. Ive been searching for an alternative though, i dont really want to carry a chopsaw around to hook up a sink.

32tpi ??? try an 18 man, you cut waaay faster, and still just as straight if you have it tensioned.