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06-21-2011, 12:06 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sherwood, Oregon
Posts: 85
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Why would you go to all of that trouble and pay all of that money and not replace the whole sewer line? That is ridiculous. Of course you never HAVE to replace the whole thing, the point is that you don't want trackhoes tearing up your yard a year or two from now, to replace the stuff you didn't the first time.
Also what's with the sales pitch comment? I'm not trying to sell anything, I'm actually looking out for this guy. You need to put more critical thought into your posts before you cost someone more money down the road. Your "never replace the whole thing" concept doesn't apply in every situation and in this case can really screw the customer.
Last edited by Hyper48fan; 06-21-2011 at 02:43 AM.
Reason: addition
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06-21-2011, 12:27 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sherwood, Oregon
Posts: 85
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Also, there is a difference here in Oregon between the building drain and building sewer. The building sewer starts 2' outside the building and Kenny's entire sewer needs to be replaced. In his building drain there are belly's and a significant amount of grease build up and it's going to give him issues, so why not do it right and save the money on service calls? Big picture.
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06-21-2011, 03:41 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 212
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i stand by what i said, after the 5 min mark, YES, the other 25 feet before that "NO" the cast iron under the foundation "yes" if it call for it with out tearing up the enitre house..
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06-22-2011, 01:27 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 493
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The cast iron is holding water. Cast is a horrible building drain/sewer material. It comes from the factory with rough walls and the flow line is subject to rotting and build up. The transition to terra cotta is in the mud room and shortly after, the camera quickly passes root intrusion in most of the connections afterward. They are at the top of the pipe and easily missed. Root intrusion = replace the connection. The hubs have shifted and in a good t.c. scenario there would be no lips to catch sewage and debris. This is also a good indicator that roots are working their way into the hubs. At the expense of digging up portions and doing spot repairs, it would be in the best interest of the customer and the plumber to replace most of the sewer/building drain. It was probably the first 15 feet of cast iron that was in fair condition, but I believe that all cast should be replaced anyways. It will continue to be problematic.
Ask a concrete contractor why it is so expensive to replace a 3' x 3' pad in comparison to replacing a whole sidewalk. He/she will tell you that the set up for a pad takes as much as a set up for a large job. We all know this if we have done it before. Dig a 25 foot ditch today and do a repair then dig a 10 foot ditch in 2 months, then dig another 20 foot ditch 4 months after that...or dig a 55 foot ditch today and fix everything. Total the costs for the individual jobs and then bid the one job. Big difference in cost and the customer isn't cursing you in a few months because there is another back up. You may not get the other jobs at that point anyways.
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06-28-2011, 03:22 PM
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#15
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Plumber in Atlanta
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Another-Plumber
your triping, the entire line NEVER has to be replaced, although everything after the 5min mark should be replaced..
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I totally agree. The first thing you ALWAYS DO is find the source of the problem ie. tree, bush, etc... fix it then replace the broke pipe (Unless the entire line is deteriorated). In most causes entire line isn't deteriorated so just remove damaged part and splice with new to save a lot of money. Good Luck.
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06-29-2011, 04:11 AM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sherwood, Oregon
Posts: 85
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Genius!!!!
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07-26-2011, 11:44 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: , Florida, East-Central
Posts: 1,113
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Replace the entire line. My guess is it's 3034 PVC pipe which is very thin, and subject to failure. Replace the line with SCH 40 PVC, the difference in price between 3034 and SCH 40 is very minimal compared to the overall job. You will not get cracks in the SCH 40 therefor no root intrusion.
John
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09-27-2011, 11:13 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: sacramento, california
Posts: 1
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We had a local company ( expresssewer.com) come out and they did a camera (for free) on our Orangeburg pipe which was collapsing and had tree roots entering. Ended up doing the trenchless as we had a bunch of landscaping we didnt want to dig up. Also, the digging up option was actually more expensive than the trenchless.
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09-29-2011, 02:54 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 493
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Nice to hear that you got everything fixed. Stay trouble free and remember us if you need something in the future.
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