Question: custom shower pan (problems) - Plumbing Forum

nuklep · 03-22-2010, 12:26 AM

Hi everyone,

I have a problem with making a custom shower pan. I hired a handyman to fix a few things around asked him if he could do the tiling in my bath remodel. Hes done all other jobs to satisfaction, but seems like he doesn't know how to pass the inspection for shower pan leak test. (i am in california)

First he put down a 40mil gray sheet liner over the plywood. Then he painted on REDGARD brand paint on liner to seal gaps (very expensive). That didn't work. Now he put on a gallon of wet patch roof cement. Currently I'm waiting for the the cement to dry. (its like a black tar).

Anyways. this has delayed my project severly. Can someone please guide me how to make the pan leak proof and what type of material is going to work for me.

heres a photo

i'm willing to tear it all up and redo it right

**havasu** · 03-22-2010, 12:53 AM

It's obvious that shower pans is not his speciality! If I were you, I'd call a licensed shower pan installer and watch his magic. He will probably use the 40 mil liner, but will add nearly dry cement, and slope it for proper drainage. You never use Henry's for shower pans!

As a handyman, I'm embarassed.......

nuklep · 03-22-2010, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by havasu

It's obvious that shower pans is not his speciality! If I were you, I'd call a licensed shower pan installer and watch his magic. He will probably use the 40 mil liner, but will add nearly dry cement, and slope it for proper drainage. You never use Henry's for shower pans!

As a handyman, I'm embarassed.......

Oh, btw he did put on cement first and sloped it. The inspector said he wants to see the liner sealed, before we put cement

**havasu** · 03-22-2010, 01:18 AM

So, you are saying he put cement first, then the Henry's? How is the tile going to stick to the Henry's? If the inspector Ok's it, ask him if this would be acceptable in your area, because I've never heard of it being done that way.

nuklep · 03-22-2010, 01:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by havasu

So, you are saying he put cement first, then the Henry's? How is the tile going to stick to the Henry's? If the inspector Ok's it, ask him if this would be acceptable in your area, because I've never heard of it being done that way.

My mistake. I wasn't clear.

He put down the 40 mil liner and poured cement, sloped it. and the inspector failed it because he wants to see the pan leak proof before cement.

So he broke and removed the dry cement and painted it with redgard. but that didsn't stop the leak. now he has put the tar on it.

**havasu** · 03-22-2010, 01:34 AM

Was the liner a one piece liner? Those are suppose to be foolproof, and once the folds are managed, you install the concrete, slope it, and should be ready to tile. I also notice the green board. Is the liner under the green board? Are you going to install concrete board over it? I see a potential future leak without it.

nuklep · 03-22-2010, 01:48 AM

yea it was one piece. but he cut and patched at corners, where there would've been folds (patches of the liner). the liner is six inches up under behind the green board.

**havasu** · 03-22-2010, 03:05 AM

I don't know. They are "one piece" for a reason. As soon as you cut the corners, you lose the integrity of the "one piece" liner. So, he is now going to install the dry mortar over the Henry's?

nuklep · 03-22-2010, 03:51 AM

well, first we have to pass the leak inspection, if we do, then put the dry mortar. i don't think its a good idea

**havasu** · 03-22-2010, 04:05 AM

As much as I hate saying this, if it was my new shower, I'd rip it all out and start over. With the concern of any chemical reactions with the Henry's and the membrane or the redgard, or the varied expansion from the three substances, you may be looking at a replacement very soon. It is alot cheaper to fix it now than to bust out your tile (which I assume you will be installing after the pan is built) and start over. I wish you the best of luck, whatever you decide!