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Old 04-22-2010, 01:04 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilroy View Post
Normally the pipe, the lead seal and the flange are flush. This combined flush surface it where the wax seal is going to sit.
This repair needs that area filled in.
I used a short piece of 4"ABS pipe and plumbers putty to fill in the gap.
You could use more Lead Wool instead of the putty,
But after packing the flange you're probably thinking " It's time to wrap this up, set the toilet and go.

You should always install new bolts to the flange with a washer and nut.
really its a tactical move.well done

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Old 04-23-2010, 12:52 AM   #12
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that was cool..learned about the old method in college..but never actually saw it...my teacher told me his grandfather used to use this old technique.... very cool
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Old 05-08-2010, 09:09 PM   #13
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but dera friend this technique is still being used at some places.
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Old 05-09-2010, 12:40 PM   #14
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I don't use the lead wool. I actually melt the lead and pour it in. I'm a cheap ass.

Great post!

I have been unable to use the "pop-in" type on one occassion. There was so much buildup on the inside of the pipe that even after spending 20 mins scraping the inside of the pipe and jumping on the flange, I was unable to get it to seat far enough in.

Last edited by Reedwalker; 05-09-2010 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:33 PM   #15
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I'm a cheap ass.
i know well................... lol
u r doing good job my friend.
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Old 04-07-2011, 12:46 PM   #16
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This thread was very helpful. I am doing this same repair for the first time. My flange was poorly installed and was a 1/4" higher in the front preventing my new toilet from sitting correctly. So far I have removed the flange using this method. I saw other posts saying to whack it with a hammer but I was not comfortable with that. Just kept drilling untill it came loose. Did not even break a drill. couple of questions.

1) Is there any reson to reuse the old flange? It is solid, but dirty. Will I get a better seal usinga new one.

2) Can the lead be reused? I cleaned it up pretty good, but it is still a little dirty. I am planning on melting it in. I have all the tools,respirator, and good ventillation.
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Old 04-07-2011, 06:56 PM   #17
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If you are going through all that trouble you should use a new flange.

If you have all the right stuff to melt it go for it.
Packing the lead wool is much safer and probabbly not that much more time involved.
Don't foget to pack the oakum first either way.
I use this same method to install shower drains on abs pipe.
I discard the neoprene jiffy seal gasket and pack it with oakum and lead wool.
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:03 PM   #18
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I've never used the lead wool, but will look into it the next time I need to do a flange replacement. Still plenty of cast flanges to change out around here.
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Old 04-09-2011, 12:17 PM   #19
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nice repair. i have done the same here in chicago burbs quite a bit but i have never used lead wool before. i have a small acetylene tank on the truck for melting lead to pour the joint.
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:01 PM   #20
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Dear Lord......I am also in the burbs. What would this type of repair have cost me?
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