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**Mr_David** · 04-01-2010, 02:04 AM

I'm going to show you how I replaced a cast Iron closet flange using lead wool and oakum.
The Lead wool gets packed into the joint rather ten melting and pouring it in.
Much safer this way.
" Use protective Gloves when handling The Lead wool."

This particular flange was about 1" below the finished floor and required at least 3 wax seals to set the toilet.
I'm going to raise the flange flush to the finished floor.
Normally the top end of the cast iron closet bend would also be flush with the floor.
A standard cast iron flange has only 2" of depth. For this job I used an extended hub Flange.

There are other methods of installing a new flange onto a cast Iron closet bend.
There are products that use a neoprene seal and just bolt on but I have had my share of replacing those so called easy fixes.
This is not an easy fix but it will not come loose if done right.

**Mr_David** · 04-01-2010, 02:08 AM

To remove the old flange I drilled out the lead.
Be careful.
The flange hub is tapered and you can snap a drill bit.
Sometimes the existing lead seal is narrower on one side.
The closer together you can get the holes the easy it is to dig out the lead.

Now that all or most of the lead is removed the flange should just lift out.
This one I had to chip a little concrete from around the edges to remove

**Mr_David** · 04-01-2010, 02:13 AM

Set the new flange. It can be slightly above the finished floor, but to much and the toilet wont sit on the floor properly.
pack the oakum into the hub. 1/2" minimum (packed tight)
Try to keep the gap between the pipe and the flange even.
You will have to hold the flange up in place while packing the oakum.
You can install the closet bolts and a couple strips of wood to hold it flush to floor until its tight.

**Mr_David** · 04-01-2010, 02:16 AM

I poured Rapid Set concrete in the space under exterior of flange after I installed the oakum.
The flange has a tendency to shift a little when packing the Lead wool.

You thought drilling it out was hard.
Now you start packing the lead.
Use a caulking iron. You can use an old narrow chisel or screw driver , Just grind the end flat.
Pack it tight in approx 1/2" increments. Over pack it above the end of the pipe.
Then scrap it flush to the top of the pipe.

**Mr_David** · 04-01-2010, 02:18 AM

Normally the pipe, the lead seal and the flange are flush. This combined flush surface it where the wax seal is going to sit.
This repair needs that area filled in.
I used a short piece of 4"ABS pipe and plumbers putty to fill in the gap.
You could use more Lead Wool instead of the putty,
But after packing the flange you're probably thinking " It's time to wrap this up, set the toilet and go.

You should always install new bolts to the flange with a washer and nut.

BRad704 · 04-01-2010, 08:07 PM

I can say with 100% certainty that I have learned something new today! Great looking work!

**havasu** · 04-01-2010, 08:44 PM

I also learned from this. What I was wondering was how long has it been since the old melted lead pots were used?

Chris · 04-01-2010, 09:18 PM

Great write up thanks. I have wondered how this would be done and now I know.

specgrade · 04-02-2010, 03:13 PM

Now that was a great post. It looked like hard work but the results are a vast improvement!

Thanks for the lesson!

**phishfood** · 04-02-2010, 10:16 PM

Thanks for posting this! I have never tried to replace one, but at least now I have some idea how to go about it.

You mentioned having had trouble with the boltdown PVC/neoprene replacement flanges. These are what I have used the time or two that I have run into this. What types of problems do you see with those?