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Old 03-26-2013, 10:06 PM   #1
TravisTea
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Default Water heater to code?

Has this water heater been installed to code? What is the check valves purpose on the one line?

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Old 03-26-2013, 10:10 PM   #2
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I'll study the picture a little more, but that is a trap primer, not a check valve going into the stand pipe next to the furnace.



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Old 03-26-2013, 10:17 PM   #3
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I would be more concerned with the electrical work.

John

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Old 03-26-2013, 10:29 PM   #4
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Here's what I see. Codes may differ in your area.
The flex connector to the hot water tank is not coated and protected. It should have a dirt leg to keep particulates from entering the control valve.
There is no valve on the cold supply. Fixtures and appliances should have a control stop on supplies. Check the gas line for a valve/stop also.
The trap primer should also have a stop for servicing so that the house doesn't need to be shut down to repair or replace. That type of trap primer doesn't require a special design of the piping to operate like some others, but note: every time somebody uses any hot water in the house the primer will add water to the trap. Seems wasteful to me to have it on a frequently used water line...overkill for a trap.
The gas connector for the furnace is also a flex line and enters the compartment of the furnace. This should be hard piped with steel and also have a dirt leg. The gray coating also leads me to believe that it is an old brass flex line and has been recalled due to leak hazards. The brass flexies crack and if it is one, going directly into the furnace is a combustion/explosion hazard.
The 2" stand pipe hopefully is also trapped. Can't tell from the picture.
The make-shift trap for the condensate line from the furnace is deep and not a smooth one-piece construction and will get all boogered up inside.
If there is a backflow device and/or a pressure regulator there should also be a thermal expansion tank installed close to the water heater. An expansion tank anywhere on the cold water piping will help, but is most effective close to the tank. And, yes, even with a regulator that has a thermal expansion bypass, the tank is necessary. The 'bypass' feature is unreliable.
That's all I can see for now. More pictures of the flu pipe and surrounding area may reveal more.

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Old 03-26-2013, 10:32 PM   #5
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Good call, John. I didn't recognize that as electrical. I thought the photo was from an Italian restaurant and some fettuccine alfredo got tossed around.

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Old 03-27-2013, 02:24 AM   #6
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The furnace or water heater would not pass any good inspection. If you post more pics as stated above , we could give you advice to pass an inspection or bring things up to code.

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Old 03-27-2013, 09:00 PM   #7
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Thank you for the replies. I'm an electrician and I'm studying plumbing on the side. The friends I have that are plumbers are busy year round while the electrical trade in my area is not enough to keep me busy 40 hours a week. I have been studying the UPC and some other plumbing books. I may apply at some plumbing shops next month.

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Old 03-27-2013, 09:02 PM   #8
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:05 PM   #9
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Without a trap prime would the methane gas be explosive if it contacted the gas furnace? What if that was an electric heater, would you still need a trap primer? Also where in the UPC is a trap primer required ?

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Old 03-29-2013, 05:01 PM   #10
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Well it would not be explosive, but it would stink up the place and be a health hazard. The trap primmer is required for floor drains and drains which receive intermittent use. Don't have the code in front of me for the section, but look under the floor drain section.

Some inspectors will want one on the condensate standpipe. It should have a valve before the trap primer for servicing as someone else mentioned. The cold water branch to the trap primer should also come off the top of a water line so that deposits don't clog the small orifice in the trap primer.

It looks like the cold water flex connection connects to a copper nipple on the water heater and not a galvanic isolator like is installed on the hot water side. Though it could just be the photo. Looks copper too me and should be a dielectric isolator, a galvanized nipple lined on the inside with plastic.

Also the PVC pipe turned up on the AC evap coil is the overflow drain. I would remove that and pipe the overflow to the floor. That way if the primary condensate drain clogs you'll know it before the condensate back ups into the furnace.



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