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01-22-2010, 03:00 AM
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#31
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,198
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I can not understand why Pex could not be used, provided you use their "red" tubing. When in doubt, a quick call to the company would answer it, as I am only guessing.
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01-22-2010, 05:11 PM
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#32
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Expert Turd Herder
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 165
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PEX is widely used in radiant heat systems. These systems are basically large "recirc" systems.
PEX is definitely approved in California. Near the end of the article it states that "installers, will be able to use PEX in all jobs in California"
I have used PEX for recirc lines in homes as well as restaurants.
Last edited by Reedwalker; 01-22-2010 at 05:15 PM.
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01-23-2010, 01:59 AM
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#33
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,846
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Thanks for clearing that up.
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02-16-2010, 05:31 AM
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#34
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 11
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Tankless question??
I just installed this Navien tankless that works with the solar tank..The tankless is the one with the condensing unit with built in re-circulating line! Now for the question....How important are the wye strainers?? Cause as you can see..I didnt install them! It showed them in the installation guide on the hot, cold and re-circ line but with the new lead law in Cali...They didnt have any instock at the supply house!! Thanks in advance!
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02-16-2010, 10:01 PM
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#35
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Expert Turd Herder
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 165
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They're pretty important. Especially on the inlet. The wye strainers are the first line of defense to keep debris out of the heat exchangers. I'm not saying its horrible, but I would definitely try to get one on the inlet at least.
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02-17-2010, 04:05 PM
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#36
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 11
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Good point...I think I'll add one to the inlet! Thanks, Frank!
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03-08-2010, 07:40 PM
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#37
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,198
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This is where my contractor installed my tankless water heater. At the bottom of the picture, you will notice my gas meter. Is there a specific code which deals with a minimum distance between the meter and a water heater?
Also, we discovered by using the visible flexible line, the pressure was severely reduced in the house, so it was changed to solid 3/4" copper line, which allows full flow. Does anyone see any concerns with it?
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03-08-2010, 07:46 PM
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#38
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Wildomar, CA
Posts: 4,211
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The main concern I would have is why is it outside? Especially in our neck of the woods with the sun and heat.
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03-08-2010, 07:57 PM
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#39
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,198
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The primary reason for relocating the water heater is because originally, it was just to the right of the garage door. It was an old "tanked" 50 gallon water heater on a 18" wooden pedestal. It was ugly, and took up too much room. Relocating the new tankless outside made everything work better. The new water lines routed perfectly, there was easy access to the gas line, we punched a dedicated circuit into the stucco, and there is no worry about fumes. Also, the PVC flashing thru the roof would have cost an additional $300-$400 for time and labor. The tankless really doesn't care where it is located, because it does not need to keep water warm, and only fires when needed. it is also rated for indoor or outdoor installation. The remote control for this unit is inside the garage, and protected from any water.
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03-08-2010, 08:02 PM
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#40
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,198
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And here is the remote control for the tankless water heater, mounted on the interior wall.
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