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Old 01-05-2010, 10:21 PM   #1
rustywrangler
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Default Flushing the water heater.

We have hard water here and I was advised that I should "flush" my water tank every few years to go about cleaning out sediment.

Can someone explain this process? It will be on a less than 5 yr old "12 Year GE 50 gal."



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Old 01-05-2010, 10:49 PM   #2
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We have hard water here and I was advised that I should "flush" my water tank every few years to go about cleaning out sediment.

Can someone explain this process? It will be on a less than 5 yr old "12 Year GE 50 gal."
The way I do it is to hook up a hose to the hose spicket and just open the valve and the crud just shoots out with the water but things may be different in NY.


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Old 01-05-2010, 11:18 PM   #3
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The way I do it is to hook up a hose to the hose spicket and just open the valve and the crud just shoots out with the water but things may be different in NY.
Nope, I have the spicket as well. Do I open the upper valve also, or do you just let it drain???
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Old 01-05-2010, 11:57 PM   #4
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Just hook up a hose to the spicket and open it up and let it drain. don't open any other valve.

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Old 01-06-2010, 12:19 AM   #5
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Rusty, just open the bottom drain and let the city water pressure flush it out. I'd do this about twice a year, no need to Drain it all just let it flush out for couple of minutes.

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Old 01-06-2010, 02:24 AM   #6
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Rusty, just open the bottom drain and let the city water pressure flush it out. I'd do this about twice a year, no need to Drain it all just let it flush out for couple of minutes.
City water is at about 60 PSI so that would do the trick.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:19 AM   #7
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HI did you go with gas fired or electric?

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Old 01-06-2010, 09:00 AM   #8
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HI did you go with gas fired or electric?
Gas, partially because my breaker box is full and would not accept another breaker and partially because the one before was Gas.
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Old 01-07-2010, 03:00 PM   #9
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On the newer tanks, there are back-flow devices that make it necessary to open the Temperature/Pressure relief valve to drain the tank. What I do is the following. Turn off the unit (if electric) or set to pilot if gas. Turn off the cold water supply valve at the top of the tank. Open a hot water faucet near the tank. Attach the hose to the drain valve and run the hose where you want it to drain. Open the drain valve and let all the water drain that will drain. carefully lift the lever on the T/P valve and see if more water drains. Once you have the tank drained, open the cold water supply valve for a minute or two. Watch the water coming from the hose to see if debris is still coming out. Once the water is running clear, you can close the valve and refill the tank. My reason for totally draining the tank is that much debris is sitting on the bottom of the tank. With the tank empty, the pressure from the dip tube will be higher and directly onto the tank bottom. This cleans it more effectively.

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Old 01-09-2010, 01:27 AM   #10
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What I tell customers is get a washing machine hose or a longer hose if needed hook it up to the drain cock on the heater and run it to the floor drain in the mechanical room. When you change out the filter on the furnace just turn on the the drain cock change the filter and turn off the drain cock. If you do this once a month you will save yourself alot of problems. DON'T touch the T&P valve if you do it may start leaking and will then need to be changed. The city pressure will be more than enough pressure to clean your tank properly.



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