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07-09-2010, 11:28 PM
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#11
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City Sleeker -> Rancher
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Frazier Park, CA/Frazier Park
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbump
I agree, those points look pretty burnt. That's usually a sign of a waterlogged tank cycling the pump too much.
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Man, that's not a good news... I will check it out and get a new one if it's found to be busted.
Any particular brand bladder tank pros would recommend?
Is the tank replacement something an avg guy (I know what's avg?) can do or should I call my pump guy?
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07-10-2010, 12:41 AM
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#12
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Terre Haute, Indiana
Posts: 1,633
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I'm by no means a pro, or much of a plumber, but i think you can change the tank. It's pipe fittings and all you need is a couple of pipe wrenches and some thread sealer.
__________________
~The Amish Wolfman
I am known by many names:
Otahyoni, Otah, Utah, Chris, Steve, Fred, The Amish Wolfman, and Mark's Little Buddy...
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07-10-2010, 02:26 PM
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#13
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Water well and pump tech
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Riverview, Florida
Posts: 400
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I like and sell Flexcon Bladder Tanks. Well X Trol is the other good one. In my opinion those are the only two tanks on the market that have good quality.
I agree, you should be able to change it yourself. There are different ways to install one, but it only involves one pipe. Some people use Tank Tees some don't. In a lot of cases it's a matter of cutting a PVC pipe, taking the fitting out of the old one, putting it in the new one and using one coupling to put it back together.
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07-22-2010, 03:52 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2
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checking the air in bladder tanks
When you check the air in a bladder, or captive air tank, I would recommend the following: - make sure the power to the pump is off
- drain the tank. the drain is not part of the tank and is usually on the pipe, or in some cases a tank tee going into the tank.
- there is normally an air valve on the top of the tank that is protected by a cap. Unscrew the cap and check the air.
- Air charge should be at least 2 psi less than the cut in, or the starting pressure of the pump. Switches are normally preset with a 20 psi differential and can be bought as a 20/40, 30/50 or 40/60 pressure settings.
When you turn the power back on, the pump will start and fill the tank and the pressure switch will turn the pump off when it reaches pressure.
1.What if the tank feels full or has water in it when the tank has been emptied? When the tank is functioning properly, only about a third of the tank is being used for water. The reason for this is that the air charge in the tank needs space to compress and provide pressure when the pump isn't on. if you are emptying the tank, and the tank has water sloshing around after you emptied it, this means that the diaphragm or bladder has been compromised and that the tank will probably need replacing. The bladder or diaphragm is designed to separate the air from the water.
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07-22-2010, 03:56 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2
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I agree speedbump, however, square D is the predominate producer of switches and I think the list price for those is around $15. wholesalers sell to the trade at the range you're talking about. When you buy a gauge for $2, your expectations better not be too high! Lol
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07-22-2010, 04:08 PM
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#16
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Water well and pump tech
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Riverview, Florida
Posts: 400
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Quote:
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I agree speedbump, however, square D is the predominate producer of switches and I think the list price for those is around $15. wholesalers sell to the trade at the range you're talking about. When you buy a gauge for $2, your expectations better not be too high! Lol
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Well they used to be until their quality got to be close to the Chinese knockoffs. That's what I sell now and I can't tell the difference.
I agree with the gauge prices, you won't get much until you get into the liquid filled and the price goes up accordingly.
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