Bladder Tank Questions

Kawiski · 07-08-2010, 02:38 AM

I need to reset the air pressure inside the bladder tank.

Questions are:

1. Is there drain valve or some kind of fitting at the bottom of the bladder tank to drain the water out? Or, could it be somewhere on the pipe between the the tank and the jet pump? I was told to drain the water out first before checking...

2. When checking/refilling the air, do I leave the above drain fitting open or it doesn't matter? I was told that the pump should be off AND there should be no water pressure in the system...

Thanks in advance.

**phishfood** · 07-08-2010, 04:01 AM

Hopefully one of the well and pump guys that we have onboard will chime in, but here is my non-expert take.

If the water is actually inside the tank, then the bladder is bad and the tank needs to be replaced. Just shut off the pump and drain off all of the pressure in the tank through a hosebib or a faucet, then check and set the pressure.

**havasu** · 07-08-2010, 04:09 AM

Paging Mr. Waterwelldude.......

**waterwelldude** · 07-08-2010, 04:14 AM

Drain all the water out untill the pressure gauge is on 0 psi
Check the air pressure in the tank at the valve stem on top of the tank.
That pressure should be 2 to 3 psi less than the cut in pressure of the pressure switch.

Tank should be 18psi if the switch is set at 20 on and 40 off.
or 28psi if the switch is a 30/50 switch.

You should be able to let the pressure of the tank at any outside hose bib.

Check the air pressure in the tank in a week, if the air pressure you put in there has dropped more than 2 or 3 psi, its time for a new tank.

Travis

Did someone call my name...lol

**speedbump** · 07-08-2010, 04:25 PM

You can also push on the top of the tank to tip it a little (not enough to break pipes) and it should be light. If it's real heavy, as in full of water... it's bad.

Kawiski · 07-08-2010, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waterwelldude

Check the air pressure in the tank in a week, if the air pressure you put in there has dropped more than 2 or 3 psi, its time for a new tank.

First, thanks for your response.

That's a very good idea - checking it in a week.
But a leaky schrader valve could be a cause for the pressure drop, couldn't it be? I don't know how often such a bad schrader valve is found on bladder tanks, but I wonder if there is way to replace only the faulty valve and save the tank.

Right now this is what's happening.
> Pump cuts out (OFF) at 50 psi.
> Pump cuts in (ON) at 45 psi.
I only have a 5 psi range.

I am thinking the bladder tank air pressure is too high, right?

And what is that black tube connecting to the switch?

**speedbump** · 07-08-2010, 05:57 PM

The black tube is what delivers pressure to the switch so it knows when to turn on/off.

It's physically impossible to adjust a pressure switch like yours down to a 5 lb differential. Your gauge is probably sticking. That is a very normal occurrence.
Try tapping on the gauge while the pressure is coming down. That should move the needle. If not, the gauge is no good at all.

Kawiski · 07-08-2010, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedbump

It's physically impossible to adjust a pressure switch like yours down to a 5 lb differential. Your gauge is probably sticking. That is a very normal occurrence.
Try tapping on the gauge while the pressure is coming down. That should move the needle. If not, the gauge is no good at all.

Pressure Gauge - it is fairly new only 2 months old (I bought it for something like $15 from Lowe's), because the previous one installed by pump guy didn't last a year. The previous one was shown an obvious error, like indicating 100 psi when pump cut out and 30 psi when there is no water in the system. The current one acts up normal w/o any sign of going bad. But I will tap on it to see if the needle moves.

Pump Control Switch - If the gauge is found to be good, should I raise the pump Cut In (ON) pressure from 50 to, say about 60 psi, by turning the small nut on the switch CW? The switch does not shut off the pump at once. Instead, it makes multiple arcing and then it finally shuts off (sounds like it's having a difficult time doing it). It seems like water flow in the system is surging and bouncing against the diaphragm of the switch when trying to shut off.

Black Line - I wasn't sure whether it had water or air in it. If I want to clean it, can I blow some comressed air into it or ???

**waterwelldude** · 07-08-2010, 09:47 PM

From the looks of those points, it is time for a new switch.
While the switch is off, just take both ends of the tube off and blow it out with an air compressor.

Yes the schrader valve can leak. A good tire shop should have some, but it takes a special tool to remove it. A tool to do this can be found a wallyworld in the bike tire section.

While your are fixin stuff, go ahead and put a new gauge.
The 5psi on/off does not sound right.
When you get the new switch don't adjust the small screw. It is set at 20psi between on and off.
That is the optimum setting for a pump, and should be left there.
If you want more pressure, just turn down the tall screw.

Travis

**speedbump** · 07-09-2010, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Pressure Gauge - it is fairly new only 2 months old (I bought it for something like $15 from Lowe's),

Lowes does not sell quality anything when it comes to well and pump parts. $15 sounds way too high for a pressure gauge. I sell them for $7.15 each. Gauges are mostly for the installer to set things up. If the gauge is still working before he gets out of your house, it's a plus. That's how much quality are built into pressure gauges these days.

I agree, those points look pretty burnt. That's usually a sign of a waterlogged tank cycling the pump too much.